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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I installed the following three goodies on my Bobber Black:

1) British Customs Sleeper Pro Mufflers.
2) Motone X-Pipe.
3) 16-Tooth Front Sprocket.

I have done countless motorcycle modifications over the years but I don't recall ever being more delighted with the outcome of a few hours' efforts. The machine has an entirely different personality, feels much more lively at all RPMs and sounds WAY better than stock, now having a nasty growl I did not expect. I actually purchased the Sleeper Pros from someone who bought them new but never installed them because he saw on some YouTube video that they -- even with an X-Pipe -- were tested at just 1 decibel louder than stock. He opted for drag pipes instead, but now that he's heard mine he wishes he hadn't. There's no way in the world these are just 1 decibel louder than stock (I cannot find any YouTube videos with Sleeper Pros on a Bobber). The sound is just right for me -- plenty loud especially when I want them to be, but not "loose and burbly sounding" like drag pipes. Any louder and I would probably find it annoying on a long ride despite the fact that I wear a full-face helmet.

The 1-tooth smaller front sprocket was a nice surprise too. If you've ever ridden a bike that was geared too low you know what I mean when I say I was concerned about lurchy driveline lash. I was also concerned about RPMs being annoying high at 70+ mph. No such problems appeared. In fact traffic light take-offs are much smoother without having to be careful at all on the clutch lever. And I don't even notice the difference when cruising at highway speeds.

Anyway, I just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone else is looking for a simple weekend project that pays off in spades.

Next weekend -- Airbox Delete!

-GPz
 

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Yesterday I installed the following three goodies on my Bobber Black:

1) British Customs Sleeper Pro Mufflers.
2) Motone X-Pipe.
3) 16-Tooth Front Sprocket.

I have done countless motorcycle modifications over the years but I don't recall ever being more delighted with the outcome of a few hours' efforts. The machine has an entirely different personality, feels much more lively at all RPMs and sounds WAY better than stock, now having a nasty growl I did not expect. I actually purchased the Sleeper Pros from someone who bought them new but never installed them because he saw on some YouTube video that they -- even with an X-Pipe -- were tested at just 1 decibel louder than stock. He opted for drag pipes instead, but now that he's heard mine he wishes he hadn't. There's no way in the world these are just 1 decibel louder than stock (I cannot find any YouTube videos with Sleeper Pros on a Bobber). The sound is just right for me -- plenty loud especially when I want them to be, but not "loose and burbly sounding" like drag pipes. Any louder and I would probably find it annoying on a long ride despite the fact that I wear a full-face helmet.

The 1-tooth smaller front sprocket was a nice surprise too. If you've ever ridden a bike that was geared too low you know what I mean when I say I was concerned about lurchy driveline lash. I was also concerned about RPMs being annoying high at 70+ mph. No such problems appeared. In fact traffic light take-offs are much smoother without having to be careful at all on the clutch lever. And I don't even notice the difference when cruising at highway speeds.

Anyway, I just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone else is looking for a simple weekend project that pays off in spades.

Next weekend -- Airbox Delete!

-GPz

I am interested in the smaller front sprocket... Did you have to change your chain to compensate? Also, has it altered your shifting?
 

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Hey GPz, I don't know if you've heard of the 12 minute tune before, but basically:

1. Wait til your bike is fully cooled down
2. Start the engine WITHOUT giving it any throttle
3. Don't touch the throttle, just let it sit running for 12 minutes

This puts the ECU through a recalibration for your new x-pipe and silencers

- Pasta
 

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Hey GPz, I don't know if you've heard of the 12 minute tune before, but basically:

1. Wait til your bike is fully cooled down
2. Start the engine WITHOUT giving it any throttle
3. Don't touch the throttle, just let it sit running for 12 minutes

This puts the ECU through a recalibration for your new x-pipe and silencers

- Pasta
I believe that you have to let it idle for 12 minutes AFTER the cooling fan kicks in!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Captain French: Regarding a video, unfortunately I do not own a quality video camera and my iPhone simply does not do it justice. Here's a suggestion: Just imagine the sound of factory mufflers, and then imagine the sound of wide open drag pipes with no cat. If you would like your bike a bit louder than stock but still closer to factory than to drag pipes, simply replace your cat with an X-Pipe. On the other hand, if you would like your bike significantly louder than stock, but not as obnoxiously "look at me" noisy as drag pipes then do what I did. My ears perceive that Sleeper Pros with a Motone X-Pipe produce a sound that is about 70% down the volume spectrum between dead-factory and open drag pipes w/ X-Pipe. But it's not just the Sleeper Pro's volume that is appealing -- it's the deep throaty tone. Remember what a small block Chevy sounds like with headers and Cherry Bomb mufflers? It's kind of the Triumph version of that. Just enough to get the blood flowing without going full metal Don Garlits and pissing off all the neighbors even when you're trying to be quiet.

MajSteveTrevor: As for the 16-Tooth sprocket, I was not sure I would like it so I left the chain at 108 links. It's fine but the rear axle is back pretty far in the slot. I'd like to remove just one link but nobody seems to stock bisexual master links.

Psychopasta & Forjox: I appreciate the 12-Minute tune reminder. I will wait to do that until next weekend after I do the airbox delete and add my BoosterPlug. Can't wait to hear that ol' K&N intake noise combined with my new pipes. Makes me feel young again just thinking about it, LOL.

-GPz
 

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GPz, can you please share which 16 tooth front sprocket you went with? I've been looking a little online and there seem to be several options out there.
 

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Hey GPz, I don't know if you've heard of the 12 minute tune before, but basically:

1. Wait til your bike is fully cooled down
2. Start the engine WITHOUT giving it any throttle
3. Don't touch the throttle, just let it sit running for 12 minutes

This puts the ECU through a recalibration for your new x-pipe and silencers

- Pasta
That won't do anything. The bike needs to be cold as in first start of day. Start the bike without touching the throttle and let it idle till it reaches 190F again without touching the throttle. You will know when it reaches 190F because the fan will kick on, now time the 12 minutes then you can shut it down for a few minutes. Then go for a ride!>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Try the tune without the booster plug first.
Les, please explain.

I mean, despite widespread claims of magical fuel-mixture recalibration powers, the 12 minute tune process is primarily to reset the throttle valve actuator so the engine will maintain the correct idle level. So why wouldn't I want to complete my airbox removal and add the Booster Plug before resetting the idle?

I consider you an online Blobber Mods Guru, so any detailed info you would provide on this would be greatly appreciated.

-GPz
 

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When changing out the front sprocket, does it affect your speedometer and odometer?

I’ve done this in most sport bikes I’ve had, but it’s always added extra mileage and affected the speedometer since it’s sensor was on the sprocket and not the wheel.
 

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Captain French: Regarding a video, unfortunately I do not own a quality video camera and my iPhone simply does not do it justice.
In good light iPhone video is top quality, there's a problem with the sound, it uses AGC (automatic gain control) so it's not great for 'before and after' exhaust videos as they all sound the same. But nevertheless it would be great to see your bike with the Sleeper Pros and hear it run a bit. So please post a video or at the very least a few pictures. Ta
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When changing out the front sprocket, does it affect your speedometer and odometer?

I’ve done this in most sport bikes I’ve had, but it’s always added extra mileage and affected the speedometer since it’s sensor was on the sprocket and not the wheel.
Hmmm, good question. I assumed that because both wheels have speed sensors I didn't need to worry about it. Maybe I was wrong. I will take it for a spin this weekend and see how close the indicated speed is to what my WAZE app shows (obviously based on GPS). Speed shown in WAZE is amazingly identical to the speedo in my car.

-GPz
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In good light iPhone video is top quality, there's a problem with the sound, it uses AGC (automatic gain control) so it's not great for 'before and after' exhaust videos as they all sound the same. But nevertheless it would be great to see your bike with the Sleeper Pros and hear it run a bit. So please post a video or at the very least a few pictures. Ta
I'm travelling but this picture, which I believe is one of A&J's customer builds, is very similar to what mine looks like (minus the fly screen and forward controls, plus my Corbin is traditional Bomber Jacket Brown). Isn't his bike just awesome looking? This pic is what sold me on the Sleeper Pros before I even knew how great they sound. Yummy.

-GPz
 

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Discussion Starter #16
...and imagine how much BETTER it would look if you could see through it after removing the airbox and the side panels with that silly "Bobber" name on them. That's my plan. Yummy again.
 

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...and imagine how much BETTER it would look if you could see through it after removing the airbox and the side panels with that silly "Bobber" name on them. That's my plan. Yummy again.
Did someone say Air Box Delete? :laugh:
 

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Speedo will be fine no matter how many teeth you add or subtract.

Do the air box delete if you wish ( I really do not like that but it is personal preference, just not mine) or any other mods, just give the ecu a chance to adapt, if you are still not happy then spend money on an expensive resistor.
And I agree about bobber on the side panel, that is why mine no longer has it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Les, my friend, we will have to disagree on the Booster Plug. I had good results on my last one. Yes, it is an "expensive resistor" but it is also a very cleverly applied one which actually and truly adjusts the fuel mixture and its inventor tells us in plain English exactly how it does so and why. Plus you can actually feel the results riding the bike and see it on the plugs. The 12 Minute tune is an idle reset and some vivid imagination as far as I can tell. I've never seen any proof of adjusted air/fuel mixture or even a credible explanation of how it does that or why Triumph would go to such trouble to help people who are modifying the machine. If in fact they are such charitable folks, why not just say so and explicitly publish that "Our 12 minute tune reprograms the ECU and adjusts fuel/air mixture across the RPM range to keep the engine running optimally as 'conditions' change." Something tells me Triumph engineers laugh their @sses off every time they hear about the magical powers of a simple idle reset. That's my personal opinion and, as I tell my dear wife, "I always reserve the right to be totally full of sh!t and when proven so, I will happily admit it and apologize."

Clearly your preferred method -- a dyno-tuned Power Commander V -- is the ideal solution and I very seriously considered it. But, in the end, with the cost of the PCV, its installation and programming by someone I trust, and a before and after printout of the dyno testing, plus tax, it was going to cost me over $900 US. And for that insane amount of cash I'd get what out of my stock engine vs. the same with a Booster Plug? An extra two or three horsepower? Maybe four at most? If all I wanted was 82 horsepower I could have bought a used Kawasaki ZRX1200 for $4,000 and pulled one of the plug wires off.

Anyway, my expensive resistor is wonderfully plug & play and the $159 I paid for it is a sunk cost from 2018. He!l I spill more beer than that!

Respectfully,
GPz
 

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Going with 16T countershaft gear equates to a rear increase of 2~3 teeth. Std for Bobber is 17/32, Thruxton 17/42. other than a noticeable increase in acceleration and low end torque, top end terminal speed is lower. So, your speedo will be reading high for an actual lower road speed. That's a plus.


Did the same mod on my Buell about 10 years back to the extreme with the lowest pulley ratios I could source. Top speed dropped from 210KPH to max 160KPH (100MPH). It made the bike so much more fun to ride and more manageable around town as my daily ride to work. Fuel consumption suffered a little but still returned 18~20Km/L. Correcting the speedo error was with the fitting of an aftermarket programmable re-calibrator device......something we can't do with the Triumph electronics.


To re-cal our speedo, use Speedapps on your phone, and place a few micro dots on the speedo dial face for the legal posted speed limits in your country.
 
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