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Does he have one of the models with solid wheels? Those wheels are gorgeous, but having owned a cruiser with almost solid wheels and one without, there is a huge handling difference with solid wheels in heavy crosswinds, at least on the lighter-weight cruisers, despite all the claims to the contrary, so it makes me wonder if there's any effect at your relative's 125mph-ish speed.

And do you know if the dealer re-flashes the ECU when you buy Screamin' Eagle upgrades?

Shoot, I have no plans to buy a FatBoy, but I just find it all interesting. ?
Yes it had the factory solid wheels , he didn’t have any cross winds at the time he clocked those speeds

He bought the bike new , they did the P/D for him , he went in and saw it , then they wheeled it back into the shop and pulled the engine apart.
Cases were milled , CNC heads , upgraded injectors , throttle body and flash tuner. They dyno’d it and he still had two years warranty
 

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Yes it had the factory solid wheels , he didn’t have any cross winds at the time he clocked those speeds

He bought the bike new , they did the P/D for him , he went in and saw it , then they wheeled it back into the shop and pulled the engine apart.
Cases were milled , CNC heads , upgraded injectors , throttle body and flash tuner. They dyno’d it and he still had two years warranty
All of this sounds beyond wonderful, and while 200kph is slow for almost all other bikes' top ends, you'll smoke 99% of the non-turbo'd cruisers out there, but I do shudder to think what that cost.
 

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Yeah, what attracted me to this bike was the practical nature of the bike and the drop dead looks. I have owned the cbr for about 3 years, and in 1 month, my bobber has received more compliments... I guess in my fantasy I thought I could have have one bike to satisfy me ..but I have now seen the light .. this is the intro to bike hording
You are dead-on on the last part. Most cruisers look better to most eyes, mine very much included, even though when my wife's Bobber order comes in, it will be the only cruiser in our stable right now. If you're a true moto-nut, one bike won't do, and is only a temporary state until you can afford more than one.

Like a Swiss Army Knife which does nearly everything, but by the same token, no tool in it is as good as that particular stand-alone tool, probably a middleweight adventure bike comes closer IMO to a "do it all" bike than any other, but it still won't be as good in the dirt as a pure dirt bike; it still won't go much if any faster than the 125 mph/200 kph we've been discussing (I have one bike that does just under 170 bone stock, and my re-flashed version will go faster; another that will do just under 180 stock; AND the folks with 'Busas and ZX-14s will laugh at me and make fun of how slow my poke-butt bikes are, so it's all relative); it will turn a lot better than a cruiser, but still won't handle like a sport bike on the pavement; and it won't look nearly as gorgeous as most cruisers. And I'd bet that with your two choices so far, a mid-wt. adv. bike ain't your cup o' tea.

And that's the paradox for folks with your two bikes. You can blow by all the Bobbers like they're sitting still w/the cbr, but that Bobber is going to get all the attention every time you stop. It is rolling art.

Welcome to the obsession! You're in for an awesome (and in the case of your Bobber, absolutely beautiful) ride.
 
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Make a custom drilled sensor wheel with the holes spaced 25% further apart? Or
42756
perhaps we could swap the ABS speed sensor from another triumph with a different engine limiter to increase the top speed by fooling the computer. If the sensor is made for a certain diameter wheel or bike maybe this changes how the computer interprets the information and caps speed.
T2027270 - bobber sensor
T2029270 - pretty much every other model triumph including thruxton r , T120, speed twin
Just some thoughts but the magnet removal and spacing seems like it would definetly work , just throw off the speedo while increasing top speed by the same factor of 25٪ , any opinions besides the bikes fast enough already? Trirocket3 probably willing to try it out...
 

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Well spotted Burger B. (y)
Yes I have looked into this, I got some sensor rings to eye up, also have Thruxton R pick ups, am leaning towards getting two new rings lasercut and see if a speedo healer would correct the error caused.
Have had my mind on other things for a while, but will get back at it soon.
 

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Well spotted Burger B. (y)
Yes I have looked into this, I got some sensor rings to eye up, also have Thruxton R pick ups, am leaning towards getting two new rings lasercut and see if a speedo healer would correct the error caused.
Have had my mind on other things for a while, but will get back at it soon.
I wonder if simply by milling cutting/drilling off every other seperator on a stock sensor ring that would be enough to change the way the computer interprets the speed of the ring? If the positive/negative space needs to be equal it could be a problem but the magnet only detects the passing of the metal and by eliminating half of them it wouldnt think of it as a problem but simply read the tire as moving at half the actual speed. For 180 bucks for the pair front and back I dont really feel like trying it out myself. However the speed sensor may only read from the rear tire and the front is strictly for abs management. I don't think it would be great for ABS management but with so many measurements being made as the sensor ring spins at long as they remained evenly spaced it would probably still function albeit less precisly.
 

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42761
Heres an picture of an older triumph thruxton with its 4 ABS sensor magnets , if it only had 4 readings for the whole tire then by stretching the spacing or reducing the number of holes on the ABS ring then the effects on ABS are probably negligible because it would still have 15x more readings then this older design.
 

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I just decided to re-gear it with a higher ratio so it feels like the topend has more to give even if it's still capped at 110ish. Since I do mainly short sprints off highway to and from work and don't really group ride higways I should be fine on gas milage changes. Be interesting to see if a mechanical trick/fix can be implemented because I think hacking the speed limiter could be tough. Not sure how they would go through the code on the ECU to accomplish it. I contacted Hilltop to see if they had a workaround yet but haven't gotten a reply. Probably locked down like most places this month...
 

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My bike is limited to right at 115. I have been at the limit more than a couple times and it always stops right there. It is a soft limiter. It doesn’t just bang out, it just feels like it gently loses power. It pulls strong right up to that point where if the limiter were not there, it would certainly do more. Having said that....with the bobber’ design, seating position, and the force of the wind at that speed, it’s probably best that it is limited. It’s not comfortable, and doesn’t feel safe.

Without a headwind to compound turbulence, I have run at 90-95 for miles with plenty throttle left. The wind at 100 is just not comfortable and hard to get away from.
 

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Got some major extra wind blast from a truck while going 100 and that was a little unnerving. The wind from just going 110s wasnt unbearable but seemed exhilarating to me. Get some wind blast on a bridge or from a 18 wheeler and that can definitely be a little freaky.
 

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I am also trying to remove the speed limiter. Can anyone describe how the limiter works? Looking at the 30091 tune ecu tune (i havnt re-written the ecu just yet), I dont see a limiter in the maps or tables. Curious to what sensor triggers the speed restriction and how it halts the engine (TPS %, Fuel, or ignition). Anyone have some thoughts on how the speed limiter system works? maybe the ABS wheel speed sensors are involved, but then how do they alter the engine?
 

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Maybe you could use a speedometer rclibratimg module like one from 12oclocklabs to fool the bike that it was going slower than it is. Of course, this would cause your speedometer to read the false value.
 

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Thats a good idea and might work. I was thinking this may be part of a solution where we can change the abs wheel sensors to more spaces (reads slower hopefully) and then use a speedo recalibration to bring the speedo back to normal speed or use tune ecu (if it reads off of gearing) for speedo correction. New to tuning on this machine so trying to understand the mechanics
 

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So I tested a few things. Some good news. The bike is certainly faster than 115mph :)

What I did was add some spacers to the wheels sensors (both front and rear), about 1/4inch of spacer (actually a over-sized nut). This resulted in a blinking ABS light on the dash, no speedometer and of course no traction control or ABS. What was gained was no speed limiter. Took it out for a test run and all seemed well, the information cluster seems to work as well, i didn't carefully scroll through all the pages, but tachometer worked still. I have a feeling the topic of new wheel speed rings with less openings will certainly work, albeit with an incorrect speedometer display (I think this might be able to be adjusted).

Also, I tested the quick and easy removal of the ABS fuse in the fuse box on the left side of the bike behind the airbox cover. This was a no-go. The bike did not want to start once this fuse was pulled (I did not try removing the fuse after starting the bike).

Well, hopefully some good news for some. Happy Riding!
 

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So I tested a few things. Some good news. The bike is certainly faster than 115mph :)

What I did was add some spacers to the wheels sensors (both front and rear), about 1/4inch of spacer (actually a over-sized nut). This resulted in a blinking ABS light on the dash, no speedometer and of course no traction control or ABS. What was gained was no speed limiter. Took it out for a test run and all seemed well, the information cluster seems to work as well, i didn't carefully scroll through all the pages, but tachometer worked still. I have a feeling the topic of new wheel speed rings with less openings will certainly work, albeit with an incorrect speedometer display (I think this might be able to be adjusted).

Also, I tested the quick and easy removal of the ABS fuse in the fuse box on the left side of the bike behind the airbox cover. This was a no-go. The bike did not want to start once this fuse was pulled (I did not try removing the fuse after starting the bike).

Well, hopefully some good news for some. Happy Riding!
Get a buddy with a fast bike out with you and see what you can hit with the abs ring disabled. I mean on a closed speedway loop of course. Be really careful slowing down from high speed because as you stated there is no ABS with it defeated this way. Hopefully the ring modification will allow for proper abs support and have a readable speed, albeit exactly half the actual speed.
 

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No warning lights, all working OK, speedo is reading 25% slow, showing 75 when really doing the ton, easy to calculate actual speed but also have a gps speedo to fit.
Should be good for 130+ mph now, went out today, certainly not hanging about but damp & traffic called for some restraint.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
wow kudos on all this work. I just resigned myself to just riding slower lol but it is certainty great to see everyone working on this.
 

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Hey all,

I find it off putting that the bike seems to top out at 95, even with full tuck. I just came from the super sport life and I am not expecting 140+ but 95 seems too low for empty highway runs.

What is the fix to get it up to 110/115 mph?
I have hit 110 a few times ,but then backed off ,so much wind. I always had sport bikes. I weigh 238.
 
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