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Discussion Starter #1
Went riding today and didn't really notice anything strange. When I got home I noticed the Oil pressure light had come on! Checked the window and couldn't see ANY oil. Never saw a leak or oil drippings on my parking spots. I went to the store and figured it was down half a qt or so but after pouring in a full quart it was still at the bottom of the sight window. It took almost a full quart and a half to get it back up. I noticed a little oil on the bottom of the bike upon inspection but it looked like it it could have been mostly road grime. Taking it in to the shop that did my 500 mile this week I guess I'll keep an eye on it but am pretty now now that that light came on... Anyone else have a similar problem, I mean a whole quart and change!!! Burning oil or leak has me quite worried.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
To elaborate the filter and oil plug were both clean and dry, the grime was over by EVAP system canister and chain . I figured that was just chain grease with road grime though.
 

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That’s running it pretty low to have the light come on and to take that much oil to fill. If it isn’t a leak, it has to be burning it. You could pull the plugs and see if one cylinder looks to be burning oil.

Any oil smoke while running or on start up?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No smoke thank god, and it sounds like it is running fine. I DID notice the shifts became clunkier than usual that last couple days but I thought it was my imagination as its always kinda clanked from neutral to 1st-2nd but it seemed more pronounced this week, and after I put in the new oil the shifting smoothed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No oil on the tailpipes either, I'm worried that it may have been underfilled at the first service interval but wouldnt I have noticed that by now? That was 2000 miles ago.
 

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Maybe they didn't put enough oil in at the service and you've burned of a small amount in the last 2000 miles to take it down to the low level. If you were burning that amount you would see white smoke and smell it. Just keep a very close eye on it for a while.
 

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That's pretty alarming but I'll bet Triumph's engineers were conservative with where they set the oil light to come on.

In the future, never ride away from a service appointment without looking at the sight glass to verify oil level. And look at it again when you arrive home and the motor has cooled.

BTW, I check that the oil filter is tight when I get home too. Mine was way loose after the initial service and when I complained about it the dealer tech said, "Finger tight is all I ever do and it's fine." I clarified by asking, "No wrench?" He replied, I use the Triumph wrench but no ratchet -- just my fingers." That's when I knew I was dealing with a moron, especially given how the filter is recessed and not easily grasped. I stopped back to talk to the owner the next time I was in town but by then the jackass had already gotten himself terminated.

It sucks, but nobody cares about our machine as much as we do. Trust, but verify.

-GPz
 

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My local dealer has a known reputation for asking his service technician to skip longer parts of service or he goes in the back and does the service work himself, though he’s totally unqualified. 3 service guys have quit because he’s got no ethics. Just because he’s a Triumph dealer doesn’t mean he’s a priest. I suggest anyone absolutely double check the vital stuff before driving off after a service.
 

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When mine came back from the first service / warranty repair for a leaking oil gallery plug , it was dripping oil in the delivery guy’s Ute and then on my workshop floor ( I repair cars)
I checked the sump plug and it had only been finger tightened
I rang them and told them to rip the mechanics head off
Had the plug come out , it would have cost them an engine and me a huge stack from oiling the rear tyre suddenly
Simple rule I have in my shop for sump plugs , wheel nuts and the like : on or off , in or out. If you aren’t going to tighten it straight away , leave it out
Low oil pressure light is a real worry
So many customers think it is low level , sadly. Red means stop 🛑
Hope you get the problem resolved as painlessly as possible
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Recap and update:
When I checked the level it was pretty hot which may have lowered its apparent level more by the clutch and head holding oil. But the window showed no oil even leaning right which really worried me in conjunction with a red light with an oil can on it. After the quart and a half running it then letting it cool completely the oil is now slightly above the the window and after running is right about halfway. I may have overfilled slightly but nothing coming out of the airbox or overflow occurring. I do have to say it shifts better with the extra oil but the question now is EXACTLY how low was it before I added?
What does your oil window look like after a sustained ride and while cool guys? I know your supposed to check the level after five minutes of low rpm idling but what about cold and hot levels?
 

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You’re bike was so low that the oil pump was cavitating and the engine was losing oil pressure. That’s how low it was if you were getting an oil pressure indicator warning.
 

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Careful now, BurgerBobber -- you definitely don't want to overfill it either.

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Got myself some supplies today. A new oil filter - NAPA 41358 and a Motul 300V Jug.The filter is cross compatible with our bikes filter yet has a better flow and filtration rating then the unbacked paper filter.
Anybody staunchly opposed to the blending of different colored equally blessed fully synthetic oils...
I was thinking of adding in some royal purple max cycle for detergents.
Going to have it drained and swap it all out sometime but for now its got oil the light is off and I'm not AS upset about it. Going to ride it the shop it checked out. Will monitor my oil level after I get this done more closely and frequently.
I figure if I was burning oil and my gears have always been clunky maybe a cross comparison with another brand was in order so I'm foing to try out some Motul 300V. The SDS was impressive and it has a few big fans on this board as well.
 

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Have a look at the drain plug for signs of metallic particles. Drain the oil out and pass it through a filter paper to see if there are any metallic particles there. I would get the oil out, the engine flushed through with a flushing oil and then fill with the new oil and fit the filter. I wouldn't wait to do this. If you have been unlucky and you have some damage as a result of the low oil pressure you need to get the metallic particles out as soon as possible to give you the best chance of recovering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Careful now, BurgerBobber -- you definitely don't want to overfill it either.

Yeah too much oil can be as bad as too little in some engines, oil gets foamy and pressure can drop or shoot up causing flow mayhem then boom.
Its running like it did before albeit the gears are smoother. Since the oil level is still low enough to be in the sight window when running I didnt overfill that much but I'll definitely keep an I on its consistency/color and level more carefully then before now. I'll feel alot better when a I can run a magnet through the oil thats in there and check for particles.
If it burns oil again we have great consumer lemon laws in Texas and I'll be sure to take full advantage of them. Triumph were very friendly with my other warranty repairs so I doubt it will come to that.
 

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The trouble is that white metal from bearings is not magnetic so you won't pick them up with a magnet. You might catch some particles from the gearbox with a magnet but the gearbox will run for quite a while with little lubrication whereas the main and bottom end bearings will fail after only a matter of seconds with no oil pressure. Filtering the oil is the best way to identify any impurities.
 

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If you really want to see if you have any damage and bearing material present in the oil, send a sample to black stone labs or someone else that does oil analysis.

Keep an eye on what’s going on. Could be nothing, or could be a as major as a cracked piston. That could cause you to lose oil and you may hardly notice anything in the way it is running. I would look a the plugs though to make sure each cylinder is burning the same.
 

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Anybody staunchly opposed to the blending of different colored equally blessed fully synthetic oils...
I was thinking of adding in some royal purple max cycle for detergents.
NAPA is high quality filters. No worries there. Should be no issues with mixing synthetic oils as long as the ratings match what's in the manual (I don't know off the top of my head all the acronym jargon). But seriously, I would stick with one or the other (MOTUL or Royal Purple). Everyone has a favorite boutique oil (Red Line, Royal Purple, AMSOIL, Castroil, Mobile 1, etc) but they are all equally good for the stated purpose of keeping your motorcycle running in top form.
 
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