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Discussion Starter #1
I shouldn't really read this forum you guys are a bad influence on my wallet, Eisen77 especially.:smile2: His write up on getting Ohlins cartridges fitted encouraged me to do the same.

I bought mine from here We did have a slight misunderstanding over the springs. Its not obvious that you have to buy these separately and there is no way to do that on their web site that I could see, but eventually we came to an understanding over the price and they I have to say were very helpful.

Fitting them yourself is pretty easy, but there is one major gotcha. You do need a number of tools including a 17mm allen key/tool for the front axle and realistically a beefy impact wrench and torque rench. This was where I nearly came unstuck. After jacking the front end up and removing the wheel, mudguard and caliper etc. I was able to remove both forks. The fork disassembly requires a longish 8mm allen key to remove the damper rod from the bottom of the forks. I didn't have one to hand so I cut a spare 8mm key and used an 8mm impact socket. Neither of these bolts would come undone. In fact the first one must have been tightened by a 400lb gorilla with a cheater bar. I have a DeWalt 18V electric impact. This twisted the allen key like a pretzel and in the end all it would do was spin.

I resolved therefore to drill out the bolts using a 9mm drill bit. The metal in these bolts fortunately doesn't appear to be stainless and they came out relatively easily. After that it was plain sailing. It was a lot easier re-assembling them. Ohlins instructions mention a pull up tool and a spring and a stopper plate but you dont need either of these as there is a large gap between the spring and the fork cap.

I am still playing with the damper settings and preload but they seem to be a lot smoother than the oem. Will update once I have covered some miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One thing I forgot to mention was the replacement damper bolts. The oem bolts from World of Triumph are £8.41 each excluding delivery which is frankly a bit rude. They are a fine pitch 10mm x 25mm 1.0mm pitch. I found some some on Ebay for about £3 a pair. The only hitch is the head is a tad larger than the Triumph oem bolts but I turned these down a fraction on my lathe.
 

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Really hope you enjoy the upgrade as much as i do.
The Ohlins really do seem to be getting better with every KM; they are such a quality bit of kit.

I must add that for some reason I am enjoying my Ohlins front and Wilbers rear even more now that I’ve installed my high bar.
Maybe it’s cause my body position has changed I can feel the fluidity and suppleness even better now.
 

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I k now it's a Speedmaster, and therefore different suspension, but I've upped my tyre pressures by 0.1 bar (1 psi) mainly because I lose a bit out of each tyre, and it's made quite a difference with the ride being more plush... On most other bike forums I've been on, people play around with tyre pressures, but it doesn't seem to be a temptation here?
 

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I k now it's a Speedmaster, and therefore different suspension, but I've upped my tyre pressures by 0.1 bar (1 psi) mainly because I lose a bit out of each tyre, and it's made quite a difference with the ride being more plush... On most other bike forums I've been on, people play around with tyre pressures, but it doesn't seem to be a temptation here?
On my racing bike I did make minute corrections (at stable & measured temps and tire warmers). But on a road bike just tend to stick to Triumph/manufacturer recommendations. Just too many variables to account for when on the road at varying temps and road conditions.
 

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My GTR1000's ran at 40 and 45 as opposed to 36/41, the Guzzi's ran at about +2psi front and rear...
 

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I don't see a set of these for the 47MM bobber black, do they just make the 41MM for the regular bobber? Don't see them on A&J's website for the bobber black so I was thinking I may just be out of luck here.
 

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I fitted the Ohlins cartridges last summer and they make a colossal difference.
I made up my own pull up tool by bonding the right sized bolt into some box section aluminium, the spring holding plate out of some sheet aluminium, and a cartridge holder (to stop it spinning whilst tightening the bottom bolt) out of a socket bonded to a length of box section steel (the outer wall of the socket had to be ground down to fit into the fork stanchion). I imagine that not all of them are necessary, but it did make the whole job very easy.
To get the bottom bolt out, I fabricated a jam from a broom handle to hold the damper tube whilst undoing it with an air impact wrench.
Originally I'd bought the Matris cartridges and their rear shock, which I've kept, but returned the cartridges because a) they were impossible to centralise in the forks, and b) there is only 0.5mm clearance between the spring and the inside of the fork stanchion, causing those two parts to rub together and sounding like a knackered old squeaky bed.
 

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I had a long ride on a T120 today whilst Speedy was having its annual service, and the thing that put me off was the huge fork dive on very gentle (i.e. getting the frontend settled type) braking. That really would need suspension work.
 

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a) they were impossible to centralise in the forks, and b) there is only 0.5mm clearance between the spring and the inside of the fork stanchion, causing those two parts to rub together and sounding like a knackered old squeaky bed.
I am sad to read this , but i will fit then , i hope that it works well...
My standard forks sounds like an old bed , the dealer said that they are fine... :(
 

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I also had issues with fitting the Matris forks and had quite a few conversations with the importer regarding the fit & weird noises.
In the end my mechanic managed to get rid of most of the noises (don’t ask me how, as I don’t know but I have 100% confidence in an ex moto GP mechanic!)
Needless to say he was not very impressed, hence my move to Ohlins.
The Ohlins were simply brilliant from day 1 with zero issues fitting or using them.
 

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Ohlins was my first choice , but would be impossible carry it on my luggage back to Brazil...

Einsen , may you ask to the mechanic what did he to fix the noise?
I’ll ask him, but it was so long ago and he looks after so many bikes I hope he remembers.
So no promises!
I remember the noises being like clinking/rubbing almost like the dampers were wobbling around inside. The worst noises were during full rebound (holding onto the bar, pushing down and then pulling all the way up).
Disturbing and annoying !!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I managed to get out and ride the bike after adding the Ohlins cartridges. I have to say I am very impressed. I don't think this is a placebo effect. Smooth roads are like glass now and what used to be aggravating crashiness at the front is completely gone. The best way I can describe it is you no longer notice the forks are there. It is an expensive upgrade, but for me its money well spent.

Only one fly in the ointment unrelated to this. I also added a Freespirits Brembo brake kit and swapped out the supplied brake pads for some EBC sintered pads. I got about 100yds up the road and started hearing a speed related noise from the front. I pulled up and the tyre wasn't rubbing so I assumed it must be the caliper. I carried on and after a few brake cycles the noise subsided. I can only assume the pads are interfering slightly so I am off to investigate further.....
 
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