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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

The last few times I’ve used my bike, when pressing the ignition the bike hasn’t started and there has just been a click. Much like when a battery is flat, except my battery is 100% not flat. In the past I have simply pressed the ignition switch again and it’s started. However today, it didn’t seem to want to start after several presses. It just made a single click!

In addition... with just the ignition in the on position I’m pretty sure there are two warning lights on that I haven’t noticed before. Namely the low oil pressure and MIL light.

Both go out when the bike finally starts.

As you can imagine I’m somewhat concerned and will of course get the bike back to the dealership. In the meantime if anyone can shed any light on the situation I would be grateful?
 

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I've heard it said that the MIL and oil pressure light come on if the battery voltage is low. You say the battery is ok but is it holding voltage under load? I had one that showed 12.7v but as soon as any load hit it then the voltage collapsed.

Or possibly a poor connection?

I should add that aren't the MIL and oil pressure lights meant to come on with the ignition and go out when started? I'm pretty sure mine do.
 

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Does sound like a loose connection or a faulty battery. Even though you might keep it on an optimate/battery conditioner - sometimes they go bad. Can you try hooking up a jump starter and seeing if it’ll fire up ?
My GSA would do the same (randomly) and I had to carry around an anti gravity portable jump starter until BMW kindly refused to give me a new battery under warranty after 3 weeks of battling with them. Once it was changed (at my expense!), everything worked perfectly again. Their diagnostic showed the OEM battery was fine. Needless to say, it wasn’t !!
Just saying that despite the battery showing 100%, it STILL might be faulty.
 

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Hi Mike

Hit the starter and get a click, the speedo arm sweeps and your trip counters and MPG reset?

Bad earth, had mine into the dealer 3 times, been clear of the issue for 900 miles now (trip 2 not reset yet so i know it's ok.....) they fixed it on the 3rd visit acting on 'advice from Triumph on the issue' - no more detail than that i'm afraid.
 

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Remember too , you have several "safety" features that come into play. Check the connections at both the side stand switch and the clutch lever switch. If either is loose , it can cause this too. But Start at the battery. #1 culprit for these types of issues is connections. That includes the ground to frame that is just behind the battery. Check all of those areas before hitting the panic button. An ohm meter is a big help in diagnosing these little issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi all and thanks for all of the guidance.

Firstly its very reassuring for you to confirm that the oil pressure and MIL lights are meant to come with just the ignition on. I haven’t used the bike for a couple of weeks so couldn’t quite remember, and what with the bike not starting my mind obviously jumped to conclusions!

Not sure about the speedo and trip resetting Ethariel... I’ll have a look tomorrow. I’ll also run a systematic check of all connections etc.

As for the battery... it has been on a trickle charge for around 1 week. It’s the first time I have used the new charger but the issue was present prior to ever having used the charger so I assume there’s no correlation.

I’ll report back once I’ve managed to get to the bottom of it :wink2:
 

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Batteries just go, sometimes at the least convenient time (e.g. like any time you want to ride :). Doubt it’s related to the charger though if you really meant a “trickle” charger (which I understand keeps charging even after battery is at 100%) as opposed to a smart Battery Tender (which goes to from full to float charge as the battery requires), it could be part of the problem. But, I suspect you know that and it was just a choice of words. Anyway, let us know what you find to be the source of the problem.
 

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The click is certainly symptomatic of the starter motor not getting the juice it needs. Battery is the obvious culprit, but if its good check the earthing and then all the connections that go on between battery, starter and earth.
 

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The only way to properly test a battery is with a "load" tester. If you don't have one, your friendly mechanic most likely does.

Chico
 

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The only way to properly test a battery is with a "load" tester. If you don't have one, your friendly mechanic most likely does.

Chico



Absolutely! The load tester is an expensive piece of kit, and will measure the voltage drop for a given (heavy) current draw. There was a generation of Yuasa batteries a few years back that would have faulty inter-cell connections, that would strand you with no notice.


As an aside, a boat story. this winter I changed the auto pilot on my boat, because the old one had gone "TU", and wasn't powering up even though there was power at the electrical socket. I ripped the old stuff out, including said electrical socket, and the positive connection had disintegrated into a green copper salt. So the moral, even though it showed a voltage, the "connection" wouldn't carry more than a milliamp or two , not enough to fire up the old pilot.


My first point to look would be the batttery earth connection, it's a funny old thing in there, and it has to be removed to even get the battery out...
 

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I had a starting issue at the petrol station and had to get it towed. The battery wasn't charging due to a corroded connector at the reg/rec. The battery voltage looked a little low but still had some juice, the Triumph tech told me that it doesn't take much of a drop in voltage for the ECU to prevent a start.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I should have mentioned... it is intermittent, by that I mean in the same given space of time, sometimes it won’t, sometimes it will start. Hence why I suspect it’s not the battery itself, but as many of you have mentioned it’s most likely a connection issue.

I’ll be taking a look when I get home from work tonight :)
 

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The first thing I did on mine was to disconnect that earth connection and smear it with copper grease - it may be covered with a rubber cap but it's very susceptible to the elements. Hope you get this sorted as something fairly simple to fix.
 

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Can someone please post up a pic of exactly where this ground/earth connection is, so we can do some preventative maintenance?
Look to the left of the battery. You'll see a black cap like object, peel it back and that's where the negative ground wire from the battery is connected to the frame.

Chico
 

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My "observation" is that the negative battery connection is odd-you have to remove it to pull the battery.As such I reckon it's prime territory for not being tightened properly...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Any update on this @Mike J Commo ?
Did you find the culprit ?
Hi all,

So I had a look over the terminals and checked they were good and tight. Nothing was dramatically loose but to be sure loosened everything off... sprayed a little ACF-50 on the bolts and nipped them up again. So far I’ve had no issues since... and fingers crossed that will continue to be the case! :grin2:

Thanks for your help and suggestions fella’s. As ever this forum and its members prove to be legends!
 

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I had a similar problem with my Guzzi Norge when I rode into Como, I'd ridden through absolutely biblical rain, and it never happened again. Happened once on the Stelvio, but that was a blown ECU fuse, which required the RAC man to change...
 
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