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Discussion Starter #1
Welcome to weigh in with your critique on my additions, good, bad or indifferent.


OEM seat bar was modified to full floating which required some machining, a shim and a sleeve on the left side mount aside from removing the front bolt altogether. Still undecided as to which way I'll go with securing the springs to the seat. Vertical or inclined, which looks better?


Too many pix for this post. More below.


Enjoy.
 

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Some cool mods for sure. But I looked at the pics of your seat two and a half hours ago and my butt still hurts.

-GPz
 

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Looks great Retro! That last one is in my wallpaper collection now :smile2:

Can you say some more about the power connector you show in the second set of pix?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Retro,

Where did you get those springs with the 'curl' for attaching directly to the bolt???

Cheerio,

Roy

Mate, the springs I purchased off EBay locally (Australia), but they also listed elsewhere. Made in India, lucky the chrome plating was good otherwise I would've not bothered as I've ordered other styles that arrived with absolute crap plating. These springs are intended are for the BSA C10 & C11 model 250's with Lycette pattern seat and are 5-1/2 inches in length. I bushed the bolts with a stainless sleeve so the springs don't damage the thread over time, if at all.

BSA C10 & C11 seat springs5-1/2 inch
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks great Retro! That last one is in my wallpaper collection now :smile2:

Can you say some more about the power connector you show in the second set of pix?


A few options onthese for mounting. I chose this one as not much in real estate space on the bar to mount accessories after fitting clip-ons.....and I didn’t want it on the bar anyhow, prefer outof sight. Comes with a flat plate as an option which as you can see I mountedon a stainless post off the case. Also meant I could easily pick up the frameground terminal from here and also run a wire up to the fuse block for anactive battery feed. The unit is fusedrated in-line at 2 Amps standard so I upped the rating to 7 Amps meaning Icould inflate my air mattress outcamping without frying the wiring harness and blowing fuses should theunexpected occur. I opted not to use the Triumph OEM auxiliary connector under the tank.


12Volts socket & 2 x USB
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Some cool mods for sure. But I looked at the pics of your seat two and a half hours ago and my butt still hurts.

-GPz
It's all about looks, ticked my boxes if no-one else. ......


And you're so right. After a 4 hours ride each way on country back roads, not the most comfortable of experiences hence the sprung seat mod. Trialling around here, found the compression & rebound characteristic made for a much more a pleasurable ride. In hindsight I should've opted for a gel-cell insert maybe.


Originally looking at a Mother Road Customs seat, however I baulked at the shipping costs added to the final bill. This one from Germany (Alex Leathercraft) only cost AUD$25 for shipping and it arrived 10 days after sending.


https://leathercraft24.com/en/


https://motherroadcustoms.com/
 

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Love the 4-bar emblem on the tank. You've definitely made it your own, and I respect all of it, even if it's nearly the polar opposite of my vision with my bike. Well done!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Jeez, I thought EISEN might have dropped in by now with comments about the sprung seat!!!!!!

But more on the four bar badge install for this epistle.......
12 months ago, with newbie enthusiasm ordered some accessories, X-Pipe and other embellishments, which included of four bar badges. Dohhhh!, they don't fit the Bobber tank, however taking onboard the advise of John's 4 bar instructions - post #7 of 20), decided it was time to fit mine. I was originally contemplating on de-badging, and go with Vintage Decals but there are a few rides amongst our Triumph fraternity sporting these motifs so a lost opportunity at exclusivity there.

Back to the task.....with the desired aesthetic more period in philosophy would obviously require a bit of twisting and coercive bending to manipulate the badge into following the tank contour. First and foremost, there are a couple of locating tangs protruding from the rear of the castings. These need to be removed by simply snapping them off with a pair bull nosed pliers. Also, I removed the factory adhesive backings. Peeled them off, not without some effort then washed off the residual gummy stuff with acetone. Why did I do this? Because I'd have probably compromised the integrity of the adhesive somehow, and to achieve a flusher fit against the tank.

Wrapped tape around the front lip seam of the tank, then applied duct tape on the back of the badge so it wouldn’t scratch the tank paint while sliding it around and eyeballing everything up. Next, to fashion a cardboard template of the badge bar and position it on the tank to inspect its cosmetics and alignment. I marked the line on the badge AND cut the leading edge off the casting from the rear-side (carefully) with a dremel, about2mm longer than my ‘guestimated’ measurement, thus allowing for final sizing and positioning. Happy with the location, traced a new template and flipped it over in mirror reverse to the other bar. I used a belt to linisher to dress up the ends and to remove the razor sharp edge off the chrome plating gave a gentle wipe over using fine 1200 grade paper.

Cast aluminium (aluminum), a bit more forgiving than the old back-in-the-day brittle muck-metal badges, but nonetheless ever conscious of the possibility of a stress fracture of the chrome, they survived. Took some time working the badge into the required shape so it fit more or less flush. To re-shape I held the bar in a bench vise, protected by generous wraps of old blanket material, gently applying some force in the right directions. This I did by hand and with a pair of large slip joint plumbers vise-grip pliers.

You won’t get it perfect, but very close with minimal badge rocking at this point. The black adhesive will fill the gaps and stabilise.

Wouldn’t be describing this next painful process if I’d simply used some 6mm (¼inch) deep red vinyl pin striping tape!,.!!!!!! I stripped out the 4 x black accents on the badge bar, masked up and roughed the chrome with fine abrasive paper to ensure the paint adhered then sprayed them with a metallic Burgundy and a clear top coat with five attempts to get it perfect. My son who builds models, noting my frustration from the terse language weighs in to quip ‘hey dad, why don’t you use a scalpel!’. Smart ass. Yep, use the craft scalpel and carefully score tape to paint join before you peel the tape off, otherwise the paint delaminates......do it again. This is best done before the paint has completely dried and retains some elasticity.

I put strips of masking tape on the tank, marked out and measured the reference points ready to glue. Silkaflex 277 black automotive polyurethane construction grade sealant was used to stick the badges back onto the tank, holding them in place overnight with tape. Believe me, you won’t be removing these with dental floss once it cures. Affixed forever, so get it right and make sure they're positioned exactly where you want them. Don’t need to be too generous in the application, else Silkaflex will ooze out top and bottom. If that occurs you can wipe the bleed with a clean cloth dipped in Mineral Turps.

As for the metal Triumph motifs. Removed the factory adhesive, stripped out the paint with acetone and spent a couple of days procrastinating over a colour combination. Clear coated. Silkaflex to re-attach before I stuck on the 4 bar. Nexttime I would stick the bar on first, then the logos.
 

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Hi Retro,

The tank badge is a nice setup and looks grand.

I bought the same set to use just the centerpiece for my side-panels. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the whole badge unit, lovely.!

Like you some small adjustments had to be made. The (Triumph) centerpiece had a more acute curve than my side-panels but a couple of days gentle pressure under a G-clamp sorted it out.

Cheerio,

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice job Roy. Another great option.


You know, the one thing that irked me about our choice of ride's visual appeal was the word "Bobber" as a statement of model marque.


I trawled the web for a suitable vintage/retro decal replacement but instead decided to void the side panel. The decal is clear coated and removal created it's own issues once committed to peeling it off. That necessitated preparing the cover with 1200 wet & dry paper and re-clear coat x3 the item with a final buff over. You did the same?


I'm probably with you on this one......I do like the idea and clean look of air-box delete and pod projects, however I'm quite happy with the standard side cover appearance, it's practical mechanical considerations and purpose. I can access the fuse block roadside by popping off the cover, rather than having to carry around another key/tool to remove the delete cover and poke around the tucked in wiring.
 

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I trawled the web for a suitable vintage/retro decal replacement but instead decided to void the side panel. The decal is clear coated and removal created it's own issues once committed to peeling it off. That necessitated preparing the cover with 1200 wet & dry paper and re-clear coat x3 the item with a final buff over. You did the same?
That’s what I did as well. Peeled off the Bobber stickers and repainted/clear coated the side panels. Much better looking imho.
 

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My bad!
I´ve seen every pic and not mentioned what a great job you´ve done!!

But now i am with my morning coffee & the kids are still asleep, I will say that although i personally don´t find the sprung seat appealing (sorry :eek:) i think the bike as a whole looks fantastic and i always appreciate a bike that has been modded to its owners preferences.

Thanks for sharing.
 
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