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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while ago I asked if anyone had done this - there was a limited response, but I've carried on anyway!
As said by others before - it is really only for the brave!
I looked at depinning, which I've done on basic connectors before - but the connectors here appear far more intricate so I elected to cut the wires instead.
With 14mm holes drilled in the bars the smaller connectors will actually go through - potentially saving a bit of work.
However, contrary to some previous advice, the loom does not have enough slack to reroute the cables.
The LHS is about 150mm short and the RHS about 100mm short when routeing the cables between the speedo and the clamp. Going between the clamp and the tank makes them even shorter.
So, all the connectors have to come off to lengthen the cables anyway. That's two connections on each of the 33 wires - 66 joints in total!
Cutting the cables at different locations under the tank behind the loom cover helps with bunching. Also if you stagger the cuts then where you have cables the same colour (red and black) its obvious which is which , like a jig saw puzzle.
I have bar end indicators which also need incorporating. The indicators and the modified bars prevent the fitting of heated grips so the surplus cables for these were stripped out, giving room to run the indicator wires in the original sheaths, which have been retained. I used the redundant heated grip wires to extend the others.
The underside of the switch gear houses have been drilled and zip ties fitted to lock the cables and prevent stress on the switch connections, as the original tabs that did this are no longer suitable - being external.
I've soldered each joint. I think this is the quickest, easiest most reliable way, and the joint is only larger than the wire by the width of the heat shrink if you do a tidy job. Potentially more of an issue is the wicking of solder into the wire which can make it rigid over a short distance beyond the joint - not a problem if you're making the joints in the carrier under the tank. You can use heat soaks to prevent this but it appears unnecessary and also beyond me.
Its a cheap project as long as your time is free and you have the basic tools already. The most expensive bit being getting the bars powder coated.
Below is the work in progress.
Its going to be a heart in mouth moment when I finally get to press the starter again....

Electrical wiring Round-nose pliers Slope Wire Art
 

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A while ago I asked if anyone had done this - there was a limited response, but I've carried on anyway!
As said by others before - it is really only for the brave!
I looked at depinning, which I've done on basic connectors before - but the connectors here appear far more intricate so I elected to cut the wires instead.
With 14mm holes drilled in the bars the smaller connectors will actually go through - potentially saving a bit of work.
However, contrary to some previous advice, the loom does not have enough slack to reroute the cables.
The LHS is about 150mm short and the RHS about 100mm short when routeing the cables between the speedo and the clamp. Going between the clamp and the tank makes them even shorter.
So, all the connectors have to come off to lengthen the cables anyway. That's two connections on each of the 33 wires - 66 joints in total!
Cutting the cables at different locations under the tank behind the loom cover helps with bunching. Also if you stagger the cuts then where you have cables the same colour (red and black) its obvious which is which , like a jig saw puzzle.
I have bar end indicators which also need incorporating. The indicators and the modified bars prevent the fitting of heated grips so the surplus cables for these were stripped out, giving room to run the indicator wires in the original sheaths, which have been retained. I used the redundant heated grip wires to extend the others.
The underside of the switch gear houses have been drilled and zip ties fitted to lock the cables and prevent stress on the switch connections, as the original tabs that did this are no longer suitable - being external.
I've soldered each joint. I think this is the quickest, easiest most reliable way, and the joint is only larger than the wire by the width of the heat shrink if you do a tidy job. Potentially more of an issue is the wicking of solder into the wire which can make it rigid over a short distance beyond the joint - not a problem if you're making the joints in the carrier under the tank. You can use heat soaks to prevent this but it appears unnecessary and also beyond me.
Its a cheap project as long as your time is free and you have the basic tools already. The most expensive bit being getting the bars powder coated.
Below is the work in progress.
Its going to be a heart in mouth moment when I finally get to press the starter again....

View attachment 51556
Nice work mate 馃憤馃徎 Keep the pics and updates coming
 

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Good stuff Stu, and don't worry about start up, it looks well-thought out and executed with diligence.
Sixty-six connections to make! That's a fair few more than my recent four ...
(I would have popped a wee 2 second video in here if I could've sorted how to do so.)
 

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Stu this is awesome info thanks so much for posting, wish you the best of luck and keep us updated man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure whether to get the bars redone in black, or silver as original. If I do them in black then some of the impact of the wireless bars will be lost - and they may look a bit odd with the stock clamp - was going with black - but now I'm thinking silver, maybe even get them them matched to the colour of the clamp???
 

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Stu, you must be a very patient man with steady hands, bravo. I presume that you will not decide to change the handlebars any time soon.(y)

Chico
 

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what id you do to make the exit holes smooth?. ie so the cables do not rub/chaffe on ragged edges
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also make the holes with a pillar drill. Slowly so you drill through the last bit rather than "punch" through
 

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just a question, why dont you just buy aftermarket bars ready for internally wiring? not that expensive
 
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