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Removal of OEM 5 ¾” Headlight & Swap / Upgrade to 7” Motodemic (JW Speaker) Adaptive LED

**DRAFT** Final pictures to come.***

This is a fairly easy project, however, the most difficult part is figuring out what to do with the 2” hole in the back of the 7” bucket along with the sequence in which to do things as there were no instructions included with any of the parts. After completing this swap and reflecting, I’ve determined these should help with a smooth installation.

Post installation observation / considerations: THE ADAPTIVE LIGHT SEEMS TO GENERATE A LOT OF HEAT!

Step A:
BUCKET GROMMET / DUST COVER



  1. If you don’t care about this, then you can get on with STEP B.
  2. The opening measures 55mm / 2 3”16 inches.
  3. I’m certain that with enough digging you could find something that would fit off the shelf. I was unable to find anything that was a natural fit via local hardware stores and auto wreckers on a long weekend, so I made something to do the trick. I think the ideal thing would be a solid firewall plug that you can make a hole to pass the harness.
  4. I used: The OEM Grommet ring that came with the new bucket, a 2” trailer light grommet, 1” plastic wire loom, black duct tape and some super glue to put together something that will keep the dust and water out. It will allow me to still easily disassemble/remove the headlight if necessary while meeting the environmental need. It is not completely sealed and will allow some heat to escape.


Step B:
REMOVE OLD HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY


Since the whole thing was coming off anyway, I chose to remove it from the mounting bracket before opening the headlight assembly.

  1. Open headlight assembly by remove Chrome Trim Ring
  2. Pull out lens to access bulbs.
  3. Disconnect the headlight harness plug
  4. Pull out the small front marker bulb (it pulls straight out of the socket)
  5. Maneuver / press the front marker socket / grommet out of the headlight bucket
  6. Undo hex bolts holding bracket and bucket to the forks.
  7. Remove clutch cable guide (creates more space and eliminated the inherent chafing damage


Step C:
ASSEMBLE FORK CLAMPS / BUCKET BRACKETS


  1. Fasten the each bucket support to the clamp with one of the hex bolts provided. (I used RED threadlocker to prevent loosening from vibrations)
  2. Mount the fork clamp/bucket support assembly to each of the forks. To do this, take the small hinge piece off, place the larger portion on the fork, and then slide on the hinge piece. (Hex Screws face the outside.)
  3. Loosely fasten the clamps with the hex bolts. (Leave loose until final assembly)


Step D:
ATTACH BUCKET


  1. Lift the bucket into place between the supports.
  2. Using the provided larger bolts, get them started on each side. (I found it necessary to wiggle the bucket and the bracket supports to get enough alignment so the bolts would screw in without resistance. There were plastic bushings provided, but they did not seem to be required to close any gaps.)
  3. Feed the wires from behind in to the bucket.


Step E:
INSTALL LED LENS ASSEMBLY (WITH RETAINING RING ON)


  1. There is a red wire on the back – this is not needed for our installation. I put a wire connector on it and tied it up to the other wires to prevent any unforeseen electrical issues.
  2. Position the assembly towards the bucket.
  3. Connect the plug on the assembly to the wiring harness receptacle.
  4. Align the retaining ring so that the screw holes match with those on the bucket body.
  5. Tip into place starting at the top, ensure it is fully seated, then press in completely
  6. Fasten retaining ring to bucket body with provided Phillips screws.
  7. Now would be a good time to test that the light works. Turn on ignition key, ensure light starts up, and that low and high beams work.
  8. Turn off ignition key


STEP F:
FINAL ASSEMBLY / POSITONING


Positioning will be a personal choice depending on what you like to do with your speedo instrument cluster. I prefer to have my cluster to lay flat but will occasionally lift it depending on riding conditions.

To preserve enough space to still access the quick release, as well as to minimize any rubbing of the clutch cable on the headlight housing I set it low on the forks, resting the lower clamps on top of the signal light clamps.

  1. Time to tighten things up. With the assembly in your desired position, remove ONE of the clamp hex bolts, apply threadlocker, and install and tighten. REPEAT with the other side, and then do the remaining clamps.
  2. SNUG up bucket bolts. (SNUG but not totally tight as you need to adjust the tilt of the light.) Once you have it in the position you want, Again final position will be personal preference, but I have started with the face of the light lens at same angle as the turn signal faces but may need to further refine.


STOCK VS 7” ADAPTIVE OUTPUT COMPARISON

[PICS TO COME]
 

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Thanks for the initial write-up! As for the getting something to cover the back hole of the bucket (as I was also concerned about water getting into the housing), I found on amazon these solid grommet covers that you can just cut some slots out of the back to fish through the wires. I took some measurements, and these were the closest in size to the provided grommet hollow ring that came with the bucket (except these are solid). Will let you all know if these will work.
 

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Looking forward to seeing the photos!

The hole in the bucket seems to be perfectly fine, there are many motorcycles that come factory with an opening like that, i.e the Bonneville that bucket comes off of.

BLUE 242 Loctite should be used on these components NOT red! You are asking to strip something with red because it is meant to be more permanent for higher temps. Blue will keep things from loosening just fine without the risk of stripping down the road.
 

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Thanks for the initial write-up! As for the getting something to cover the back hole of the bucket (as I was also concerned about water getting into the housing), I found on amazon these solid grommet covers that you can just cut some slots out of the back to fish through the wires. I took some measurements, and these were the closest in size to the provided grommet hollow ring that came with the bucket (except these are solid). Will let you all know if these will work.
Unfortunately, the grommet covers that I got didn't quite work out. They did in fact fit by cutting a little away, but the rubber backing on them (the solid piece where you cut out the hole/slots for the wiring) was very thin, that they would keep tearing. Since the order came in a pack of five, I tried several times to no avail. Here's some photos that showed the progress, so I guess if I can find thicker grommets of this size similar to the original small stock grommet (in pic #1), then it may work. No worries though, as I'm sure the way that the bucket hole is should be fine as is.
 

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Unfortunately, the grommet covers that I got didn't quite work out. They did in fact fit by cutting a little away, but the rubber backing on them (the solid piece where you cut out the hole/slots for the wiring) was very thin, that they would keep tearing. Since the order came in a pack of five, I tried several times to no avail. Here's some photos that showed the progress, so I guess if I can find thicker grommets of this size similar to the original small stock grommet (in pic #1), then it may work. No worries though, as I'm sure the way that the bucket hole is should be fine as is.
Will probably just end up making something using some rubber grommet parts I can find (what YEG Bobber ended up doing.)
 
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