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Rear sprocket done, can anyone share instructions for the front? I've never done this before and not sure how complicated or not it is.
1) Remove the cover
2) Unfasten and move the brake fluid and coolant reservoirs out of the way
3) There will be plates and wires in the way, just displace or remove these as appropriate (noting how they were attached)
4) Bend the raised tab of the lock washer off the sprocket so the 36mm front sprocket nut can turn
5) Make sure the bike is in gear (wheel on the ground will help) and loosen nut, you'll likely need a breaker bar
6) Remove the rear wheel to slacken the chain
7) Lift the chain off the front sprocket
8) Remove nut, washer (probably can reuse), and old sprocket (take note of orientation of parts)
9) Reassemble in reverse order, retorque front sprocket nut to 180 Nm
 

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Rear sprocket done, can anyone share instructions for the front? I've never done this before and not sure how complicated or not it is.
If you're planning on doing work on your bike you should invest in a Haynes manual.

Chico
 

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I had a 16t change on the front and it is definitely better at low speeds and the acceleration feels sharper.
One odd thing is if I twist hard on the throttle I get it feels like it is revving, but there is a lag before the bike accelerates. Has anyone else had this?
 

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I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. Wow! Really great info.
I just got my new 2022 Bobber. I purchased the 16/39 combo as per recommendations. However, after reading through all the replies, I think I'm going to start with just the front 16. I do very little to no highway riding. Just back twisties and secondary roads. It sounds like this mod alone will eliminate the over feathering of the clutch needed to stop the stuttering during take off. I really appreciate you all.
Kenny
 

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So I've put about 100 miles since swapping the front sprocket for a 16 tooth.
There is definitely less feathering the clutch needed on take off. Around town it is a much smoother combo.
But the cut in top end torque is more than a little noticeable. I'm considering installing the 39 on the rear now.
Not sure yet.
 

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No need to be a smart arse…. I have changed plenty of chain & sprockets on a R1.

Be nice to have a guide to follow

It’s a brand new bike
This is how I’ve done it a few times..
1. put the bike on a paddock stand if you have one
2. remove the front sprocket cover 8mm socket and the header tank and rear brake master cylinder.10mm socket No need to disconnect anything .
3. use a suitable tool to bend back the locking washer on the big nut
4. whilst holding the rear brake pedal down I use an impact gun to undo the main nut. If you don’t have an impact gun put the socket (36mm) on a long breaker bar, but this may mean you need another pair of hands to help.
5. now is a good time to loosen rear wheel spindle and push wheel forward to create some slack in the chain
6. remove sprocket and replace with new one. Tighten the nut to 180nm and fold the washer over. You may need to put the bike on the ground and have someone sitting on it holding both brakes.
7. replace header tank and brake master cylinder
8.replace sprocket cover
9. adjust chain

10.. most important make a cup of tea..👍👍
 
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