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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My Bobber has 300 miles on it so will be going for it's first service shortly. I am loving it but have an issue when commuting to work. If in 1st or 2nd gear and trying to cruise at a constant speed in traffic the bike feels 'jumpy'. What I mean is if trying to hold a constant RPM, say 2500, the bike will not cruise but is twitchy with the power coming through not consistently. It is not a massive issue but does make cruising at a constant speed a bit unenjoyable.

Sometimes I pull the clutch in slightly and that makes it better, but I don't really want to be doing that as I'm sure that isn't great for the clutch. I must admit I'm a bit ignorant with motor engines and the such like (could the clutch need adjusting??), but wondered if this is usual for the bike in general or whether the first service will sort it out.

Any advice is appreciated.

Regards,
Rob
 

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Hi,

My Bobber has 300 miles on it so will be going for it's first service shortly. I am loving it but have an issue when commuting to work. If in 1st or 2nd gear and trying to cruise at a constant speed in traffic the bike feels 'jumpy'. What I mean is if trying to hold a constant RPM, say 2500, the bike will not cruise but is twitchy with the power coming through not consistently. It is not a massive issue but does make cruising at a constant speed a bit unenjoyable.

Sometimes I pull the clutch in slightly and that makes it better, but I don't really want to be doing that as I'm sure that isn't great for the clutch. I must admit I'm a bit ignorant with motor engines and the such like (could the clutch need adjusting??), but wondered if this is usual for the bike in general or whether the first service will sort it out.

Any advice is appreciated.

Regards,
Rob
Maybe that or check your chain slack.
 

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I remember someone saying that the fuel map is not made for lower speed traffic situations, but that when they switched it into rain mode it was much smoother in those contexts. Might be worth a try when in traffic. Then switch back when you have an open road...

Or it could be a real issue!
 

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Probably a slack chain, at 300 mine really needed adjusting
 
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So I was experiencing the same problem. Last week I was in for my first service, so I replaced the stock grips with brown barrel grips. When the mechanic came out, I asked him why the new grips were significantly shorter that the stock ones. His reply was that there was an issue with the early production bikes with the throttle causing problems or sticking. I haven't heard this before, but it does make sense.
 

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Hey

I had exactly the same issue. Originally I put it down to the fact it needed running in and thought it would be ok after the first service, but it persisted. Trying to hold her steady between 20-30 was a struggle thought it may be a fueling problem.
Eventually got her back to the dealers and they found the throttle bodies were out of adjustment.
The amount of adjustment needed couldn't be done by plugging in, so they had to manually adjust them.

Over 1500 miles in now and she's pretty sweet now!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi,

Thanks for the replies. I thought it didn't seem quite right, so I'll ensure they look to resolve this during the first service. I'll let you know how it goes!

Cheers,
Rob
 

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This might be stating the obvious but have you tried rain mode? If it’s still jerky in this mode then you really do have a fault.
 

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Hi,



My Bobber has 300 miles on it so will be going for it's first service shortly. I am loving it but have an issue when commuting to work. If in 1st or 2nd gear and trying to cruise at a constant speed in traffic the bike feels 'jumpy'. What I mean is if trying to hold a constant RPM, say 2500, the bike will not cruise but is twitchy with the power coming through not consistently. It is not a massive issue but does make cruising at a constant speed a bit unenjoyable.



Sometimes I pull the clutch in slightly and that makes it better, but I don't really want to be doing that as I'm sure that isn't great for the clutch. I must admit I'm a bit ignorant with motor engines and the such like (could the clutch need adjusting??), but wondered if this is usual for the bike in general or whether the first service will sort it out.



Any advice is appreciated.



Regards,

Rob


I did experience the same thing. I don 't know if it's just imagination but since i have switched from 95 octane gasoline to 98 octane gasoline i think in runs much smoother at lower speed.
You could try this if you didnt already


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
 

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The rain mode test is free and easy, so I'd do it. If turning to rain mode fixes the issue, that points to fuelling. If it doesn't, that points to chain/throttle balancing/grip sticking/any number of other issues.

- Pasta
 

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It's fly by wire and is very sensitive, I doubt it's chain slack at 300 miles but could be. Light touch is key, very relaxed and no tension from waist up, upper body should be like a noodle LOL...
 

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It's fly by wire and is very sensitive, I doubt it's chain slack at 300 miles but could be. Light touch is key, very relaxed and no tension from waist up, upper body should be like a noodle LOL...
Spot on.
Maybe also leaning on the wrist and therefore unintentionally applying pressure to the throttle - making it jerky.
 

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In all fairness to Rob, I also found the standard configuration very jerky and had to add an air fuel modulator from rapidbike to help alleviate it.
The solution that works for me though, was a combination of air/fuel modulator + decat/free flow exhaust + belt (instead of chain). But I totally understand that most won't go down that route to help cure a problem that is slightly annoying at specific time (like when filtering/commuting).
And the fueling is still not perfect. It can hunt between 2200-2600 revs if you are not really, really gentle with the throttle.
If I had access to a rolling road, or proper tuner - I would go down that route. But here on the small island of Mallorca, I have to use plug and play modules that I can control via my PC or directly from the module.
 

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Had pretty much the same thing happen on my newly bought Bobber riding the 40 miles home yesterday, through various terrains and traffic patterns. I think it's the gearing. The bike is made for accelerating, and as long as you're accelerating, or cruising steadily above 2400 rpm, it's fine. But it is hard to find a sweet spot for just putting along at lower speeds/rpm. I feel like for a casual riding bike there should be a good bit of leaway between say 1700 and 2400 rpm, but in that range the bike is constantly either lugging or engine braking it feels like. I wish it were different, but I suspect it's just something to get used to (and encourages one to overuse the clutch..).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi,

Thanks again for the replies. I doubt it is my riding style as I've had lots of different bikes in the past and this is the first bike I've felt like this. I'm talking about when I keep it at exactly the same RPM e.g. 2500 that the bike feels like the power is intermittent. If the revs were alternating I would understand but the revs are constant but the power feels inconsistent.

I'm thinking maybe it is a characteristic of the bike - trevor, I think you're right as when accelerating the bike is very happy! Lugging is a good way to explain the issue. I've tried in Rain mode and it seems a little better, but will try this week when commuting to see if it feels better. I'll let you know plus what they say on it's first service.

Cheers,
Rob
 

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I remember someone saying that the fuel map is not made for lower speed traffic situations, but that when they switched it into rain mode it was much smoother in those contexts. Might be worth a try when in traffic. Then switch back when you have an open road...

Or it could be a real issue!
Agreed, the thing that struck me when I took delivery was just how sensitive the throttle is in road mode. I quite often run in rain mode now around town as the mapping suits my riding style better.
 

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Brake kit freespirit ??

Hello everyone
I would like improved braking and that they would be the solutions, change the original brake pads or radically buy the kit brembo freespirit front and rear....
 

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Hello everyone
I would like larger pectoral muscles and that they would be the solutions, change to heavy bench presses or radically buy steroids and superset incline presses with dumbbell flys...
 

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Hello everyone
I would like improved braking and that they would be the solutions, change the original brake pads or radically buy the kit brembo freespirit front and rear....
Changing the brake pads alone will achieve very little.
Your best bet is to either learn to squeeze the front lever HARD (while using the rear too) in order to get maximum braking performance from the OEM setup.
Or upgrade both to enjoy reduced force at the levers, more feel and uprated stopping power.

Here is an interesting THREAD for you, JO.
 

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Regarding the "stutering" between first and second, my bike sometimes does that at slower speeds. I chalk it up to a very lean setup, as my Suzuki VStrom did the same thing until I got it dyno-tuned. I think it's a simple as that.


Brakes... puleese...I ride older Harleys and I'm used to "wooden" brake feel. The Triumph stops on a dime compared to those bikes. Maybe just my bike? Maybe I have unusually strong grip? I don't really think it's an issue.
 
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