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found this interesting video regarding installing copper crush gaskets and that "seam":

will definitely follow this guide when i install them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yup you could leave it in place if you want, but then you would be leaving the cat internal exposed to the environments. You would have to figure out a way to plug all the holes .. or risk it.

Thanks for the replies but I know how to remove the x-pipe I just wondered if the straight through Delkevic fouls on the x-pipe in any way?
I'm not bothered about the weight saving as it's minimal and I would like to leave it in in case I change from the Delkevic in the future?
So the question is really for the Guy who fitted the Delkevic as he will know if the x-pipe is in the way?
thanks Gents
 

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I've got my stock headers and V&H mufflers off, just haven't tackled the x-pipe yet... do you know the torque values on the frame bolts we have to undo/loosen?
Thanks!
 

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I've got my stock headers and V&H mufflers off, just haven't tackled the x-pipe yet... do you know the torque values on the frame bolts we have to undo/loosen?
Thanks!
As Per the Haynes manual:

63 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the following:

a: When fitting the frame cradles, make sure the lug locates correctly in the radiator mounting grommet. Fit all cradle nuts and bolts finger-tight only at first, then tighten the top bolts to 40 Nm, the rear bolts to 40 Nm, and the middle bolt to 105 Nm, in that order.

b: Tighten the footrest/brake pedal and footrest/gearchange lever bracket bolts to 24 Nm.
 

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I've got my stock headers and V&H mufflers off, just haven't tackled the x-pipe yet... do you know the torque values on the frame bolts we have to undo/loosen?
Thanks!
As Per the Haynes manual:

63 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the following:

a: When fitting the frame cradles, make sure the lug locates correctly in the radiator mounting grommet. Fit all cradle nuts and bolts finger-tight only at first, then tighten the top bolts to 40 Nm, the rear bolts to 40 Nm, and the middle bolt to 105 Nm, in that order.

b: Tighten the footrest/brake pedal and footrest/gearchange lever bracket bolts to 24 Nm.
Awesome, you rock!! Thank you very much!
 

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Yup you could leave it in place if you want, but then you would be leaving the cat internal exposed to the environments. You would have to figure out a way to plug all the holes .. or risk it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by moldrugby View Post
Thanks for the replies but I know how to remove the x-pipe I just wondered if the straight through Delkevic fouls on the x-pipe in any way?
I'm not bothered about the weight saving as it's minimal and I would like to leave it in in case I change from the Delkevic in the future?
So the question is really for the Guy who fitted the Delkevic as he will know if the x-pipe is in the way?
thanks Gents







If you decide to leave the cat I guess you can use some type of end caps to close the holes, maybe something like this: https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...MIgcao3oah5AIVEMRkCh300AGJEAQYAiABEgKJL_D_BwE
 

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finallly got around to installing my delkevics last weekend. was pretty straight-forward with the installation. thanks a bunch to kRomHasaWrx for his install pictures and directions. it really made things a whole lot easier! probably the most difficult part was just removing my existing x-pipe due to a couple bolts were a little tricky getting to, but not super bad. really the worst part was dealing with the frickin mosquitos that were all hovering around me and trying to bite me while i was doing this (actually got a few bites despite wearing long sleeves and pants) definitely will spray on some repilant next time - never had mosquito problems, but maybe due to the season.

i didn't have to unplug the o2 sensors (although i can see why you might go about doing so.) since the nut doesn't rotate independently of the wire, it will get all kinked and scrunched up while unscrewing it from the stock pipes. almost to the point where it could be worrisome, but they'll just make it out. then when installing them into the delkevic headers, you'll just have to twist each sensor wire 6 or 7 times counter-clockwise, so that when you tighten them in, they will then straighten out to normal. (hope this makes sense.)

oh yeah, now that the x-pipe is gone, that area looks really empty! i could use that space for some storage! lol!

i removed the baffles and love the sound. definitely louder than my gassers (with x-pipe). at idle, it's not too much louder, but noticeable. when really opening her up, it really roars! will hope to provide some sound clips soon, but as we all know, video's really don't do justice.

cheers!
 

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was looking things over last night as i was giving the bike a quick wipe down and noticed a little issue with the stand side pipe. (don't know if kRomHasaWrx is experiencing this.)

that long curved thingy on the kick stand pushes right into the exhaust header once the bike is parked and the weight of the bike is fully on the stand. it's pushing the left exhause up and in about maybe .25". not a lot, but i can see the whole pipe slightly bending upwards. there's no real wiggle-room with adjustments as the rear brackets don't give any slack or anything. looks like the bracket just needs to have a slight more of a bend where it attaches to the frame to alleviate this. the bracket though is rather thick so doubt i could, or have the tools to bend it. may reach out to delkevic to see what they may suggest.

(you can also see the black smudge caused by my riding boots - another thing to be aware of. with no heat shields of any kind, may have to be more careful.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I did notice this when I was installing the pipe, but its an easy fix. I would recommend getting it back up a rear stand and loosing all the exhaust joints. Then flip the kick stand to the closed position and adjust the pipes so you have some significant clearance, should be a finger and a half. Then torque your joints back down and this should help.

was looking things over last night as i was giving the bike a quick wipe down and noticed a little issue with the stand side pipe. (don't know if kRomHasaWrx is experiencing this.)

that long curved thingy on the kick stand pushes right into the exhaust header once the bike is parked and the weight of the bike is fully on the stand. it's pushing the left exhause up and in about maybe .25". not a lot, but i can see the whole pipe slightly bending upwards. there's no real wiggle-room with adjustments as the rear brackets don't give any slack or anything. looks like the bracket just needs to have a slight more of a bend where it attaches to the frame to alleviate this. the bracket though is rather thick so doubt i could, or have the tools to bend it. may reach out to delkevic to see what they may suggest.

(you can also see the black smudge caused by my riding boots - another thing to be aware of. with no heat shields of any kind, may have to be more careful.)
 

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...dj, my side stand has a different shape. My Bobber is a 2017 original vintage as I think looking at your pics you have the same. I wonder why there is a difference?

Chico
 

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hmmm. that's something strange. would be very unusual of there may be some differences in the kick-stand shape depending on year perhaps? mine is a 2017 original bobber also. i got mine in july of 2017, so fairly early. wondering if they may have changed it up somewhere. it could be the angle of the photo maybe that's making it look different.

i personally hate that long curved post (referred to as the "footfinder") on the stand. it helps in flicking it down as your foot catches it, but it's too big. and also when the stand is down that post sits right under the shifter so it makes it pretty much impossible to shift your bike into neutral with your foot if you want to start it up (to warm it up a little - which i like to do, while i'm putting on my helmet and gloves).
 

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My kick stand looks like the illustration "footfinder". In your pic it looks different, maybe just a illusion.

Chico
 

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Hello everyone! Apologies in advance if I missed something but I'm getting ready to go the delkevic install and still cant seem to find a stock removal video. I know the initial awesome post on the install was fantastic but does anyone have links to support the removal?

Appreciate it!
Cheers
Ian
 

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Hey guys, if any of you that installed the delkevic pipes and wanted to part ways with the stock setup id be interested in buying or trading as i have a delkevic and want to go a different route. Thanks
 
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