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Discussion Starter #1
I was in the same boat as most of us in looking for info on the Delkevic exhaust. I found a single video of it running and sounded great and after speaking to a few coworkers about Delkevic, I bit the bullet and bought one.

I was generally surprised how fast it shipped, made it from the mid-west to Cali in 3 days, so a point to Delkevic for the fast turn around. The exhaust was packaged pretty well and came without any damage or scratches. Un-boxing was pretty simple and easy everything looked pristine.






Now comes the hard part, the installation directions they send out are pretty vague and almost useless. If you have every worked on any thing mechanical you already know the general items. I unfortunately didn't snap enough photos during the install as I wasn't planning on the writing this up, but someone requested and figured I can do my best to help. So here we go

Tooling you will need:

  • 10mm Deep Socket
  • 12mm Deep Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 10mm Open ended box wrench
  • 12mm Open ended box wrench
  • 17mm Open ended box wrench
  • 5mm Hex
  • 8mm or 9mm Hex
  • T55 Torx
  • Flat head
  • Needle Nose

Step 1: Removing stock exhaust and Cat. Not going to go in to much detail as there are a few videos online. Only thing I want to note is that you have to undo a portion of the frame, believe me it will make your life easier. All the below fasteners have to be loosened (1 is 8 or 9mm Allen), but you have to completely remove 2 (Torx 55) and 3 (12mm) and pull the frame down. This should give you enough room to slide the cat out.



To undo the O2 sensors you have to remove the 2 fasteners hold the the tank and slide it back. This should give you enough clearance to slide a flat head in to the clips and pull the the tab up and pull the connectors out. The Upper is the Right side & Lower is the Left side.




Step 2:After everything is removed you should transfer the O2 sensors form the stock headers to the new ones. Stock O2 is 17mm and the bung in the Delkevic is a 19mm.



Step 3: You can slide the mufflers in to the actual exhaust pipes and align them as you want. An allen is used to lock the muffler in to the pipe. (sorry didn't snag any pics of this but its pretty obvious)

Step 4: Transfer the kick stand stop from stock pips


Step 5: Install the rear brackets to the bike. Took me a few mocks up to figure this out but Delkevic gives you no direction here. I kept everything hand tight/loose to make sure the final fitment was good. The bracket only fits one way for everything to line up.



Step 6: Put the new crush gasket in the head and slide the header pipe on. Also recommend loosely installing the retaining bracket/fasteners at this time.



Step 7: Slide the muffler on to the header and install the 8mm allen fasteners thru the bracket. Make sure the band clamp is facing Allen key up. This is basically it, now you make sure everything is lined up the way you want it. I tightened everything on the following order.... Rear bracket, header, and then clamp.

Hope fully this helps you guys out there.

here is video of a cold start up.

Finished product should look something like this
 

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Very professional set of instructions. Well done, 'cos I know how much time it takes to document!
Now...how about writing up a full motor strip down! :wink2:
 

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Thanks for taking the time to write that up. Are you using a power commander or get it tuned; or was the infamous 12 min tune enough. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone, on the next write up I'll try to take more photos.


Going by what they said on their website, so far so good. Look at the o2 sensor set upon the bike I tend to believe them because the only 2 sensor that exist on the bike are on the headers. There is nothing on or after the CAT so not sure what computer would be correcting for as its not measuring post CAT.


Thanks for taking the time to write that up. Are you using a power commander or get it tuned; or was the infamous 12 min tune enough. Thanks again.
 

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thanks for the write-up! definitely helps out a lot!

didn't know if you used the gasket sealant that they provided or if it was necessary on any of the connections. heard some people bypass this step if all the connections seem tight and no leaks apparent. on your video, is that with that inner cone baffle in place? didn't know if you had removed it to see how much louder it would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nope nope didn't use any of the sealant, everything has a mechanical gasket so so didn't see a reason. I haven't been brave enough to take the baffle out, its already pretty loud and without that it would be unbearable. Maybe Sunday I'll pull them off for fun.

thanks for the write-up! definitely helps out a lot!

didn't know if you used the gasket sealant that they provided or if it was necessary on any of the connections. heard some people bypass this step if all the connections seem tight and no leaks apparent. on your video, is that with that inner cone baffle in place? didn't know if you had removed it to see how much louder it would be.
 

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LOVE it! So darn tempted now... Thinking I could offset the cost by ditching my vance & hines for these, just have to figure out my license plate location.... Thank you so much for sharing!
 

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Look great ! I’m sure you’ll be happy with the brand.
I had a Delkevic slip on , that I fitted to my CBR 500 for the 3 1/2 years I had it
A good quality , smart looking unit and the pricing was half that of a Yoshi or Two Brothers
 

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should be getting my replacement headers tomorrow and hoping to have time this weekend for the install (hopefully). thanks for all the help. had one question (may be silly), but i was wondering where on the stock equip was this rubber piece located? i'm not sure if i need to re-order this piece if it most likely attached to the stock pipes, since i sold my orig set awhile back. is it called the kickstand bump/stop or something?

i was looking at all the triumph parts diagrams and could not find this piece/part#.

thanks!
 

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I have a daft question too...
I've not seen any fitting instructions for these pipes but I have already fitted a TEC de-cat with the standard exhaust.
I was wondering if these pipes can be fitted without removing the de-cat as they are straight through pipes ?
Fitting the de-cat was a 2 hour job at least for me and I was hoping I could fit these pipes and leave the de-cat in place but not connect?
what do you all think?
 

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You probably have to losen the decat anyways to take the original headers, I don't think it matters but I would take it out, less weight
 

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You probably have to losen the decat anyways to take the original headers, I don't think it matters but I would take it out, less weight
yeah, i had the same question too, and was probably leaning towards just keeping my x-pipe on there even though it won't be in use. unless it's easy to take out than i may re-consider. if it's a pain to remove, will keep it on - may be a good idea in case i do later on decide to switch out the exhausts again for a non-straight through kit.
 

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Off course I'm open for any other suggestions and/or correction if someone has more experience.
I'll also very close to buying the Delklevic headers
 

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yeah, i had the same question too, and was probably leaning towards just keeping my x-pipe on there even though it won't be in use. unless it's easy to take out than i may re-consider. if it's a pain to remove, will keep it on - may be a good idea in case i do later on decide to switch out the exhausts again for a non-straight through kit.
The X-pipe is attached by 2 fasteners, once they're off it's just a matter of sliding the pin out of the retainer on the frame.
If you've already removed the exhaust, removal of the X-pipe will take you all of two minutes! :wink2:

Oh...you also have to loosen the frame rail, the engine brace, the foot peg hanger, the radiator...maybe 45 minutes then!
But once that's all done, removing the X-pipe is dead easy! :grin2:
 

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Thanks for the replies but I know how to remove the x-pipe I just wondered if the straight through Delkevic fouls on the x-pipe in any way?
I'm not bothered about the weight saving as it's minimal and I would like to leave it in in case I change from the Delkevic in the future?
So the question is really for the Guy who fitted the Delkevic as he will know if the x-pipe is in the way?
thanks Gents
 
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