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Discussion Starter #1
I very carefully measured the chain slack at its low and high point.
with top chain tight I came out with a 1.5" slank measurement - after first 415 miles of conservative riding.

This is my first time measurement. I tried to use the spot on the chain that had the most movement but was still readily accessible.
Manual (p.79) says chain slack should be 1.02 - 1.3 inches (22mm - 33mm) so I'm over at around 38mm.

As a side note. These wrench sizes would seem to do the trip for tightening the chain - adjuster bolt and lock nuts.
wrenches for chain adjust: 1 1/16", 11mm, 12mm (not perfect but std sizes
 

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Doesn't have to be perfect, whichever wrench size works. This is a reminder that we should probably check our chains after the break in period in case it's too slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol..the fancy measuring tool is a cheap plastic caliper of course.
make sure you get one that will measure 6".
Harbor freight has one $2.99. Amazon has similar prices.
 

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I wonder if Triumph checks this at the 500 mile break in service. And I guess I need to by that fancy measuring tool.
Yes, they are supposed to check it.
I have moved my service forward to Tuesday and i will ask the mechanic to measure the slack (i have CANED my bike from day 1 with no mechanical sympathy, apart from a good warm up). My chain is quite saggy!
Going to put Motul 300V engine oil - as have used this with great results on every bike i have owned.
 

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Probably best to get your own plastic caliper and periodically check the chain slack in case it's a recurring problem after a certain amount of miles.
 

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Probably best to get your own plastic caliper and periodically check the chain slack in case it's a recurring problem after a certain amount of miles.
I´ll do no such thing.
I would not dream of taking work away from the mechanic :wink2:
(my lack of wanting to bend down and get my hands dirty could also be something to do with it :rolleyes:...)
 

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I do not adhere to the books break in period rules.
Never have on any bike i have owned (except fragile 2 strokes).
I break the bike in by riding it like i would on ANY given day & try to do alot of windy, undulating roads + city riding so i can use every gear and most of the rev range during the first 1000km.
Warming up the bike (golden rule - before EVERY first ride), bedding in the brakes & acclimatizing to the bike itself are all very important. But nannying the engine and revs....??? Never.
I also use the best oils available and usually service my bikes before the required time.
 

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I do not adhere to the books break in period rules.
Never have on any bike i have owned (except fragile 2 strokes).
I break the bike in by riding it like i would on ANY given day & try to do alot of windy, undulating roads + city riding so i can use every gear and most of the rev range during the first 1000km.
Warming up the bike (golden rule - before EVERY first ride), bedding in the brakes & acclimatizing to the bike itself are all very important. But nannying the engine and revs....??? Never.
I also use the best oils available and usually service my bikes before the required time.


I agree, I like to to to add some short rides, let the bike cool down and do it again. The rings will seat just fine even with full synthetic oil. I don't abuse my bikes but if you baby them around they will never run as well as if you just ride them and vary RPM's. I try and keep the RPM' s under the rev limiter first 500 miles. Change the oil get the metal out and ride em...
 

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When new the bike has a mix of break in oil and some type of internal engine cleaner. Perhaps neither are up to the task of heavy throttle/rpm?

I didn't keep it under 4K RPMs the 1st 500 miles but certainly didn't lay it on much.

Looking forward to doing that now that the break in service is done though!
 

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Going to put Motul 300V engine oil - as have used this with great results on every bike i have owned.
Hi, which grade of Motul 300V are you using; 10W-40 or 15W-50?
And is this oil okay for the catalyst? Or have you removed your cat?

Just asking because the 300V is primarily designed for racing teams/bikes, (that have their engines overhauled after every few races, and don't normally have cats, or do they?).

Motul 7100 10W-50 is; on the other hand; designed for street bikes with cats.

What is it that you like about the 300V?

My apologies to the OP for not talking about the original topic of chain adjustment.

Cheers!
Mike
 

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Hi, which grade of Motul 300V are you using; 10W-40 or 15W-50?
And is this oil okay for the catalyst? Or have you removed your cat?

Just asking because the 300V is primarily designed for racing teams/bikes, (that have their engines overhauled after every few races, and don't normally have cats, or do they?).

Motul 7100 10W-50 is; on the other hand; designed for street bikes with cats.

What is it that you like about the 300V?

My apologies to the OP for not talking about the original topic of chain adjustment.

Cheers!
Mike
http://www.triumphbobberforum.com/forum/601-what-did-you-do-your-triumph-bonneville-bobber-today/1553-first-service-done.html

I use 10w 40 in the Bobber (no CAT).

Been using 300V for years now - on everything from Racing Bikes (no cats) to my GL1800 touring bike (with cat).
Engines run smoother and gearbox changes are much better and more positive (especially on the GL1800!!)
On my LC GSA (WITH CAT), a qualified and experienced Beemer mechanic asked me which oil i am using - as my engine was so much less rattly/noisy than normal Liquid Cooled Gs´s.

I am not mechanically sympathetic with any vehicle i own and use them the way they were intended once warmed up. On high revving bikes, i DO change the oil before the recommended KM are reached, but on my touring bikes, the oil change is done as per the book.

With the Bobber, i find that i launch quite aggressively & use 1st/2nd/3rd hard. But cruise at relatively low RPM (and low speed), so i may change the oil earlier rather than later.

Debating oil & viscosity is like opening a can of worms. If anyone asks me, i just state what i have used on over 20 of my bikes (without a single gearbox/engine problem) and go my way.
 

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Debating oil & viscosity is like opening a can of worms.
I understand mate:wink2:
You've answered my question perfectly; all I wanted to know. I was just a bit concerned about the Cat issue, one thing I've no idea about.

Thanks again!
Happy Bobbing....!! (can we say that without being arrested?) :surprise::grin2::laugh:

Cheers!
mike
 

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At the end of the day the cat only matters if you are roadside emissions tested, to be honest, who really cares if it works/fails/is removed and replaced with an x-pipe? (Apologies to all the tree huggers out there but even if Europe and the US cut emissions by 95% overnight, China would take up the slack in under 6 months).

Derailing the thread slightly - as we have a really good (NOT!) rev counter, what is the 'redline' as far as those quicklu moving digits are concerned?
 
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