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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Gents,

I know there has been plenty of talk regarding non stock Bobber shocks, almost a little too much which at times has this old head of mine spinning. I find the ride on my Bobber with standard shock, well best described as 'jarring'..:frown2: So it is only a mater of time before an upgrade will be on the cards. However with the substantial cost involved I want to make the right choice for ME.

For reference I'm around 175lb or 12½ stone in old money. And I'm a pretty sedate rider looking for comfort and a 'soft' smooth ride or as much as is reasonably practicable.

So with that in mind can I ask for comments in regards one specific question; if You have a non stock shock (Fox included) how would you rate your after market shock specifically in regards how it fairs for a 'smooth' ride?

Very grateful for any input.

Cheerio,

Roy
 

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I'm 190 lbs. I have given up my sports bike days so I am now a rather sedate rider. The Fox shock serves me well. I have never used anything but stock and Fox so I can't comment on anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Gents,

I forgot t mention could you rate your specific aftermarket shock from 1-10. 1 being no different to stock, 10 being you don't think it could be improved upon.

This might make it easier (for me) to compare.

Cheers,

Roy
 

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Thanks Gents,

I forgot t mention could you rate your specific aftermarket shock from 1-10. 1 being no different to stock, 10 being you don't think it could be improved upon.

This might make it easier (for me) to compare.

Cheers,

Roy
6

Chico
 

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I’m interested in the benefits, if any, for a relatively light guy at 140 lbs. I hear heavier guys, with stock shock, have a jarring time at low speed “bumps”,whereas I’m generally ok with those. But at higher speeds, it can be a bit unsettling but I come from the Harley world where it’s all a bit unsettling... haha.

So is it worth it for us lighter riders and if so, which shock is best suited for it.
 

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Roy, a shock will make a difference, but you are still stuck with the limited rear wheel travel on the Bobber/Speedy. The Stelvio I had was a carpet ride over anything but the travel on front or rear on that was huge, so it gave the shocks a chance to decelerate the movement smoothly, as opposed to having to do it in a shorter distance on the Bobber
 
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As Chico and others have pointed out there is limited travel with whatever shock you fit. You will still get a jolt from big bumps where the shock runs out of travel. The Nitron I fitted has adjustable preload and comes preset to the weight you supply them. The damping has twenty adjustment points. I am still working on that to optimise it, but it does give a less "busy" ride for me on smoother roads. The damping seems to be doing its job better than oem, it isn't night and day, but it is noticeably better.
 

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As Chico and others have pointed out there is limited travel with whatever shock you fit.

You are absolutely right!!! A Bobber has 77mm of rear travel. By comparison, a BMW R nineT - which is a relatively tight handling motorcycle - has 120mm of rear travel. A BMW R1200GS has 220mm of rear travel! Regardless of shock when you hit a big bump the Bobber is going to bust your butt.

With my Fox shock set to a few clicks below the softest ride I still get hammered on manhole covers and big tar strips.

I think Triumph missed the boat when they didn't put the seat on springs. It would have been a classic look and perhaps an improvement to the ride. Just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think Triumph missed the boat when they didn't put the seat on springs. It would have been a classic look and perhaps an improvement to the ride. Just saying.[/QUOTE]

I totally agree. Years back I had a sprung seat on an old HD Sportster (with suspension) and not only loved the look but enjoyed that extra bit of comfort. You would only need a little movement in the seat to improve things and I think it is doable so as not to interfere with the shock. Perhaps another product an aftermarket company could consider?

Cheerio,

Roy
 

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Over the stock shock , I give my Wilber a 7. So , so much better than stock , and for me , much better than the Fox. Cheaper to boot. Clinching my teeth over every obstacle/imperfection has already started stop. It ain't perfect , but had it come like this , I wouldn't consider changing it.
 

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I’m also on the light 140 lb. side so the OEM shock is not terrible but not great. All the options I’ve read about so far seem to be solving issues for much heavier riders for which I certainly get the need. Haven’t yet heard of a solution that would make a real difference and worth spending the money for a lighter rider.
 

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I wrote a review of my Wilbers set-up here:https://www.triumphbobberforum.com/forum/393-suspension-brakes/12249-wilbers-arrived.html?highlight=wilbers

I've done over 7000km since then, and the ride is plush as ever.

If the original rear shock travel spec is 77mm, then it's 86mm with the Wilbers; the shock length is 9mm longer than the standard shock, giving 9mm more negative travel. This is very noticable when taking the bike of it's stand. The bike sinks nicely into it's riding position. It's also visible when viewing the bike from the side; the rear end is ever so slightly higher without disturbing the look of the bike.
More negative travel means that the rear wheel can sink into holes and ruts much easier, instead of the whole bike falling into them. One can read all about this stuff on many "Bike Suspension A to Z" websites.

I'm normally 75-79kg so I'm no heavyweight. Wilbers will make this suited to your weight and riding style etc.
But hey, each to their own, I'll only continue to recommend this company because it suites me fine.

Hope this helps
Cheers!
mike
 

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Can anyone tell me how difficult shock replacement might be and whether you need to remove the seat? My seat bracket has a modification such that removing it is a bit more cumbersome than normal. Thanks.
 

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Roy...I bought the fox shock....I’m 175lbs. Honestly, I can barely tell the difference and I’ve tried it on many settings. Does seem my weight and lower most won’t have that much impact. I wouldn’t have changed it if I could do it over. Maybe a different shock would have been better but I have no way of knowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Roy...I bought the fox shock....I’m 175lbs. Honestly, I can barely tell the difference and I’ve tried it on many settings. Does seem my weight and lower most won’t have that much impact. I wouldn’t have changed it if I could do it over. Maybe a different shock would have been better but I have no way of knowing.
Hi Steve,

That is certainly a helpful post, thank you very much.

Cheers,

Roy
 

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Hi Gents,

I know there has been plenty of talk regarding non stock Bobber shocks, almost a little too much which at times has this old head of mine spinning. I find the ride on my Bobber with standard shock, well best described as 'jarring'..
So it is only a mater of time before an upgrade will be on the cards. However with the substantial cost involved I want to make the right choice for ME.

For reference I'm around 175lb or 12½ stone in old money. And I'm a pretty sedate rider looking for comfort and a 'soft' smooth ride or as much as is reasonably practicable.

So with that in mind can I ask for comments in regards one specific question; if You have a non stock shock (Fox included) how would you rate your after market shock specifically in regards how it fairs for a 'smooth' ride?

Very grateful for any input.

Cheerio,

Roy
I was in the same boat looking for upgraded suspension since I am about 270 lb and I found that hyperpro makes an upgraded spring for only $150 and is made the ride super smooth for me. https://www.webshop-hyperpro.com/en/motorbike/triumph/bonneville-bobber/bonneville-bobber/2017-2017/suspension/rear-suspension/rear-spring/SP-TR12-SSB006
 

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Can anyone tell me how difficult shock replacement might be and whether you need to remove the seat? My seat bracket has a modification such that removing it is a bit more cumbersome than normal. Thanks.
Changing the shock isn't hard, its basically just two bolts, but as there is no centre stand you need to safely jack the bike up somehow. I used a paddock stand to get the back wheel up initially, then a trolly jack under the engine to get the bike up.

You will need to remove the seat. You might be able to get access without, but it would be tricky. Far easier to remove the seat. I also removed the side panels and some plastic parts above the air filter to get better access to the upper bolt. Getting the lower bolt back in is a bit tricky. Probably a lot easier if you have a second person to lift the back wheel to line it up, but it can be done solo.
 
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