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Discussion Starter #1
Last week I was able to make some modifications that I had really wanted to do. I installed the British Customs straight pipe performance tips. Really gives a much deeper rich sound, plus I love the drag style. At idle not a very significant difference, but when you lay on the throttle it definitely let’s cars around you know you’re there. I also swapped out my stock bars and grips for Biltwell trackers and Kung fu grips.



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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Rocky. They are the 1 inch mid Trackers.... I kinda wish I would have gone with the high Trackers though


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Thanks Rocky. They are the 1 inch mid Trackers.... I kinda wish I would have gone with the high Trackers though


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I've been looking at the highs recently. How much pull back did you get from the mids and did you buy the dimpled or non dimpled (I know the difference is important for running these on a sporty but not sure if it matters for the Bobber).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is a 2.75 inch sweep on the mid Tracker, and the rise is around 3.25 inch’s. Really the mid Tracker is very similar to the stock bars. On the Biltwell website they show the high Tracker as a 2.5 sweep, and a 4.5 inch rise. I think that height is a subtle difference over the mid... but probably very comfortable. I had 2 inch risers on with the stock bars and the height was perfect, but it looked cluttered. I think the high Tracker will accomplish the same height as the risers, but with a clean look. Non dimple handle bars work great for the Bobber. If you install them yourself you will have to remove the small plastic post that’s located on the inside of the clamshell on your break side. Might sound confusing, but you’ll see exactly what I mean when you take your old bars off. There’s a little post it goes inside of a hole that they have pre-drilled on the stock handlebars. From what I understand it’s just for ease of assembly. I cut that little plastic post off as there’s no pre-drilled holes in the Biltwell bars, or really any other aftermarket bars for that matter. There’ve been no problem with removing it, and if you take it to the dealership I believe that’s exactly what they will do to install them


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If you remove that 'tit', you can roll H/bars & still place levers to suit your preference.
I'll most likely .easure out the fitment and drill a small hole for it to fit more securely. Haven't played with them yet but the plastic boxes don't feel like they would be all that secure without some sort of lock into the bar.
 

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I'll most likely .easure out the fitment and drill a small hole for it to fit more securely. Haven't played with them yet but the plastic boxes don't feel like they would be all that secure without some sort of lock into the bar.
If you set the bars where you want them then drill to suit levers that will be fine, but if you want to roll the bars forward or back lever angle will alter.

I removed it so that I can play with bar position, my levers although being fully adjustable now, have been rock solid for thousands of miles so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll most likely .easure out the fitment and drill a small hole for it to fit more securely. Haven't played with them yet but the plastic boxes don't feel like they would be all that secure without some sort of lock into the bar.


I changed my bars twice. First time I put on Biltwell Keystones, and I drilled a hole. Keystones where great, just not for me. This summer I put on the black mid trackers and removed the plastic “tit”/post. I’m soooo glad I did. 700 miles on the new bars, and no difference with how secure they are at all. But I have adjusted my grip twice, and I would not have been able to had I drilled a hole. A good friend of mine who is a national flat track champion informed me the tit/plastic post is more for the assembly production consistency, not to for securing. Other bikes sometimes have them on both sides. Pro racers, who race at 130 mph, remove them all the time to put there preferred bars on.


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Or what I should have asked was do you need to replace the cables ect to be able to fit the HIGH tracker bar? ...Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Stock cables should be fine for the high trackers. I’ve got slack left on the mid trackers with stock cables, and the highs are only 1.5 inches taller. I did have a little bit of an issue when I put the Keystone bars on. I couldn’t get exactly the right angle I wanted without creating too much tension on the cables. There was another member of the forum and mentioned he was able to adjust the brake cable under his tank when he put on the keystones on to make them fit just right. The keystones look to be considerably taller than the high trackers though


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Hmmm interesting....So stock cables are fine for all the bars that have been mentioned in this thread ??
I just tried to fit the High Trackers this week and there is certainly NOT enough slack in the Brake Line. The other cables seem to be fine though.
 

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I just tried to fit the High Trackers this week and there is certainly NOT enough slack in the Brake Line. The other cables seem to be fine though.

Ouch..Just ordered the high tracker bars , hopefully not to late to cancel them , thanks for the up date .
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sorry to hear that cgaughan1... Just curious did you try removing your tank and looking at any extra slack on the brake line? Not encouraging you to open a can of worms, but as I mentioned in an earlier post I couldn’t get the right amount of slack from my brake line on some Keystone bars I ordered and gave up on them. I saw another member post about a week later that he rerouted his brake cable under his tank, and it worked fine. I did not try the cell. Hope it works out well for you. The bill the products are great. My mid high trackers fit perfectly, but I do wish I had the extra inch and a half height that the high trackers will provide you.


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Discussion Starter #20
Biltwell* Sorry for the typos. I made that last post from my iPhone and AutoCorrect got me


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