Engine Casings - Triumph Bobber Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Casings

Hi,

I want to remove my engine casings to get them nickel plated at some point. Apart from having to drain the engine oil, are there any gotchas I should know about? I'm hoping this is as simple as unbolting the cases and bolting them back on

- Pasta
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 02:06 AM
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The clutch cover can be a bit fiddly. One thing to watch out for is the shaft that supports the electric start is located on one end in the clutch cover. When you remove the clutch cover it seems to stick on the clutch cover side and the starter gear drops off as the shaft gets pulled out, along with the cover. Its a bit of a pita to get the gear back in place, but not too bad. The clutch actuating mechanism is a bit fiddly as well. I had to mess with this to get it in the correct position when putting it back together.

On the other side the alternator power out comes via a grommet that has some grey sealant. When I swapped my covers for black ones the grommet didn't get put back properly into its locating groove. It's very hard to see as it's hidden behind the cover. I only found out it was displaced when my foot slipped off the foot rest on the way home from a ride. It was covered in oil. I probably lost half a litre and it could have been ugly as the back tyre had a load of oil on it. So be careful to check that. In order to get the alternator cover off. I found it was better to loosen the bolts that clamp the power cable so you get some slack in the cable. You may have to take the sprocket cover off to do this but its only four bolts. Aside from that it's not too difficult a job.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob's_yer_firkin View Post
The clutch cover can be a bit fiddly. One thing to watch out for is the shaft that supports the electric start is located on one end in the clutch cover. When you remove the clutch cover it seems to stick on the clutch cover side and the starter gear drops off as the shaft gets pulled out, along with the cover. Its a bit of a pita to get the gear back in place, but not too bad. The clutch actuating mechanism is a bit fiddly as well. I had to mess with this to get it in the correct position when putting it back together.

On the other side the alternator power out comes via a grommet that has some grey sealant. When I swapped my covers for black ones the grommet didn't get put back properly into its locating groove. It's very hard to see as it's hidden behind the cover. I only found out it was displaced when my foot slipped off the foot rest on the way home from a ride. It was covered in oil. I probably lost half a litre and it could have been ugly as the back tyre had a load of oil on it. So be careful to check that. In order to get the alternator cover off. I found it was better to loosen the bolts that clamp the power cable so you get some slack in the cable. You may have to take the sprocket cover off to do this but its only four bolts. Aside from that it's not too difficult a job.
Great info, Bob! This should be stickied somewhere so it can be found more easily by people looking to swap engine covers.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Psychopasta View Post
Hi,
I want to remove my engine casings to get them nickel plated at some point. Apart from having to drain the engine oil, are there any gotchas I should know about? I'm hoping this is as simple as unbolting the cases and bolting them back on - Pasta
I had mine bright nickel plated, I prefer the look to hard chrome, I will be doing my speed twin covers as well, just as soon as I get it apart for tuning, should be in 2-3 weeks.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, it was seeing yours that made me want to do mine
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:49 AM
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Where can we see said nickel plated casings..?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:48 PM
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Did the dummy air filters too

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