Brake Pad Advice - Triumph Bobber Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Brake Pad Advice

Does anybody know of any replacement brake pads that might improve the braking performance of the Bobber? I can't be bothered going through all the hassle of fitting new calipers or any other overly technical fixes.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Done a bit of my own research and have seen that brake pads basically come in three sorts: organic, semi-sintered and sintered. Semi-sintered seems to be the best of all worlds.

What type of pads does the Bobber come with? Anybody know?
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 03:39 PM
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All triumph pads are organic as standard as far as I know.

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0-60 in .......oh! wait.... I really don't care anymore (but it's still 1200cc of raw throbbing Trumpet so bugger off Mr.Scooter!)
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that. Semi-sintered here I come.

Will let you folk know how they measure up.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2018, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guffer View Post
Does anybody know of any replacement brake pads that might improve the braking performance of the Bobber? I can't be bothered going through all the hassle of fitting new calipers or any other overly technical fixes.
If I recall correctly, there have been a few posts on this topic before, to include what pads some folks moved to. Perhaps search the forum for more info. I recall some pads made a great difference, while also adding a higher level of wear on the rotor.

Looking forward to what you have to report on the pads you go with.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 02:43 AM
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I love these pads. Made the braking 50% better
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 02:44 AM
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 11:26 AM
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The main reason for the common factory use of organic brake pads is that compared to sintered pads they do the best job on cold or wet rotors and don't alter their performance significantly when the rotors get warm and dry.

Sintered pads generally work better (more stable, less fading) on hot rotors than organic pads, but to get the benefit, the rotors must be braked dry and warm in advance! This is why sintered brake pads sometimes are used on sport bikes, where the temperature of the rotors tends to be higher cause of the more agressive riding style of sport bike riders.

Double sintered racing brake pads need even higher temperature of the rotors and tend to change their performance from zero (wet and cold rotors) to maximum (very hot rotors) and this is why they often are not approved for road use!

In MotoGP they use carbon brakes, which perform awsome but exclusively at extremely high rotor temperatures. So the rotors must be capsuled against the airstream to prevent cooling between the corners!

Yes, sintered (or even double sintered) pads cause some higher wear on the rotors, but rotors are replacable! So don't worry to much about that!

When I put my focus on the really bad performing Bobber front brake, I tried several double sintered brake pads initially,. Because I tend to ride it ambitiously (as I ride my Thruxton R as well) I thought I could keep the rotor temperature sufficiently high easily! But I had always to be aware, that at the end of each straight the first pull on the lever in cold or even wet conditions was a callenge sometimes! The second pull short after the first or even the second half of a long first pull (where the rotor already had got dry and warm) showed slightly (10%) better deceleration than with the original pads.

My conclusions:

If you like cruising arround with your bobber in various (sometimes cold or wet) conditions, the original (organic) pads could be the better choice!

If you previously rode a sport bike and you're used to the behaviour of sintered pads in concern of temperature and water spray, than you might try them on your Bobber as well.

But please notice: The wooden feel on the brake lever is caused by the bad hydraulic ratio between calliper and master cylinder piston areas and will not be influenced by your choice of brake pads!

Werner Wernersen
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that. Great advice - informative and eloquent.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018, 07:16 PM
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Well on the way into work on Friday morning, i was part of a 6 bike speed run up the outside of the usual gridlock, the 2 bikes in front of me really braked hard due to the usual white van playing chicken with bikes filtering.

Hit the front brake and....... virtually nothing....

The van driver luckily chickened out at the last second.

Popped into FWR in the way home, less than a sheet of paper's worth of pad left on one and no pad left on half of the other (I know bad me), stuck in a set of HH pads and can easily kick in the abs 2 fingered now so maybe the brakes are not as bad as i thought.

2,331 miles to totally destroy the OE Triumph Organics, 800 miles better than the Tiger Sport and a **** of a lot cheaper

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0-60 in .......oh! wait.... I really don't care anymore (but it's still 1200cc of raw throbbing Trumpet so bugger off Mr.Scooter!)
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