Help in removing engine mount please. - Triumph Bobber Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Help in removing engine mount please.

I am doing the decat, and have everything ready to go but I am having a tough time removing the engine mount bolt. Any tips from those who have done the job? Is there a special socket I should use and an impact wrench? And there is a bolt on the inside too, I hope you don't have the grab that one too... Does not look like too much real estate in there to hold. The bolt seems to be insanely tightened...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tall Tree View Post
I am doing the decat, and have everything ready to go but I am having a tough time removing the engine mount bolt. Any tips from those who have done the job? Is there a special socket I should use and an impact wrench? And there is a bolt on the inside too, I hope you don't have the grab that one too... Does not look like too much real estate in there to hold. The bolt seems to be insanely tightened...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


The “By the book” answer includes draining the coolant and removing the radiator and cooling fan assembly so that you can access the crankcase to engine cradle bolts. I believe it may be possible to simply free the cooling system from the cradle so that you can drop the cradle, but don’t quote me on that (I have not yet tried it). At any rate, the crankcase to cradle bolt is a Torx T55 and the nut on the back side of each is a 17mm. You may be able to access the nut using a crow’s foot on a long extension fitted to a ratchet handle or breaker bar, but the clearance is likely too tight to get a socket on. BTB, you would have the front open from removing the radiator to reach an open end wrench in there to hold the nut. Hope this helps a little!!


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 02:31 AM
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these 2 tools will be necessary: BTR 8mm & Torx 55





for info it is not necessary to disassemble the tank and disconnect the sensor from the side stand as seen on youtube or mentioned on the notice. Basically 3 hours work

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Last edited by PFEN; 12-30-2017 at 02:45 AM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, thanks for the help!

I bought a 1/2" drive T-55 and that did the trick.

Only difficult time I had was with that bolt. No need to drain the radiator. I would agree on the 3 hour job. I pretty much followed TEC's YouTube video. I went with the tec X pipe as well.

I'm now going out for test ride.... X pipe and Vance and Hines. I'll report back in that thread.

Again, thank you.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 03:44 AM
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congratulations.
actually, taking his time and being meticulous (Care should be taken not to scratch the paintwork of the frame when sliding the decat out or a tool wrench comes rubbing when nuts are being pulled out), 3 hours of work may be enough.

with the V & H, it may still be quite "noisy".
here, with police control, ticket can happen very quickly...
but already nothing but the Xpipe and original silencers .. it's perfect.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 04:02 AM
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By far the most difficult job in the whole process for me was swapping those ****** pipe clamps from the cat to the xpipe.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jock_rocket View Post
By far the most difficult job in the whole process for me was swapping those ****** pipe clamps from the cat to the xpipe.
God bless me.
we are two to have fought with these pipe clamps







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Last edited by PFEN; 12-31-2017 at 04:41 AM.
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